Drywall Taping

Interior Drywall Taping Services For New Construction Houses, Basements, Garages, & Additions.

Professional Drywall Taping Services By 1/2 Price Pro Calgary Painting. Large, medium, big or small, we can help you save time and money on most types of drywall boarding and drywall taping services. Our high quality drywall boarders and drywall tapers have decades and decades and decades of years of experience providing customers and clients high quality professional grade drywall taping services on many residential, commercial, and industrial properties. 

While we focus our efforts on professional residential interior house painting mainly, we do come across quite a few interior projects that require professional drywall taping. It could be a new development or a renovation or a repair, rest assured we've seen it all and repaired it all as professional painters and decorators.

We have hundreds hundreds and hundreds of happy customers and clients get super high quality drywall taping finishes for less than our competitors. If you are eager to turn your fresh drywall into flawlessly finished walls our drywall taping experts and these notes below can help you save money and time. Whether it's really your very first taping job, or you're simply looking to get more information, practice, tips to improve your technique, you can likely level up your drywall taping skills with these pro tips and pro tools if you are going to do it yourself.

Expert and professional drywall taping crews make it look so easy when it comes to drywall taping. If you've ever seen them on site, they move quickly, slather compound on every joint and nail hole, and leave behind walls that are ultra-smooth. That's what drywall taping experts do. While taping drywall isn’t a usually a very difficult task, mastering a flawless finish can be really hard to ace without a lot of practice. Without the required right techniques, appropriate tools, and practice, and patience, you could destroy your new drywall and need to remove all the drywall and start again. Don't be that pro taper.

Hopefully, by either calling us in for drywall taping, or using the guide below and following the guidelines and a little bit of informative help from us, you’ll be taping walls and ceilings like a professional in no time at all. It's a lot of work, you probably won't like it, you should just give us a call to handle all of your drywall taping needs, but hey, it's your house or home or property interior you'll be looking at forever until you sell the place.

DO put your power drill and mixer to work.

Drywall mud must always be smooth and free from lumps, crud, dried mud bits etc before you begin taping. Always use a new clean bucket every day. Mixing powdered compound and water by hand with a drill is very time-consuming. You might not work out or mix out all the lumps of powder if you don’t stir or mix long enough. 

Don't bother with this kind of mud. Instead, use a mixing bit, such as Stir Whip, attached to a heavy-duty ½-inch power drill or battery powered drill to blend and mix the compound until it reaches about peanut butter consistency. Even premixed mud can benefit from a repeated burst of machine mixing, as it may have settled in the container or the bucket as you are doing your thing.

DON’T buy the wrong drywall mud for your drywall taping project.

One of the most common mistakes that new tapers to the drywall taping scene seem to make is selecting the wrong type of drywall mud. We use an “all-purpose” or “setting” compound mud for the initial coat of mud and for each additional coat of mud, except the final coat of mud. And we consistently keep mixing the mud along the way with the power drill.

All-purpose compound goes on smooth and adheres and sticks well to joints and drywall tape. It has a lot of glue in it you could say. For the final coat of mud though we switch to a “topping” compound or a "finishing" mud compound, which is thinner, creates a fine surface and sands out a lot easier than an all purpose compound does. Our pro tapers try to wipe away or work in excess drywall mud along the way while the mud is wet, because wet mud is easier to wipe away then dried mud you have to sand down after it dries.

Unless you’re an experienced drywall taper with a lot of practice, or a painter that does it all day, do your best to steer clear of  all types of “fast-setting,” or “hot,” drywall mud or spackle that dries very quickly. Hot mud or spackle can set up and dry out before you even have a chance to work it in and smooth it out as you are doing your thing, leaving you with a lot of extra sanding.

DO prefill wide joints and wide gaps between the drywall boards.

Big gaps 1/8 inch or wider between drywall panels or drywall board can give a drywall installation and drywall taping finish an amateur appearance. Not to mention leaving a nightmare for your house painters and ceiling texturing experts that are about to come on in and paint out and decorate out your house interior. Gaps aren’t the end of the world but they should be addressed. 

Just fill them up with all purpose drywall mud before you get to work taping in the drywall boards. Because the drywall compound used to fill the gaps has a tendency to shrink as it dries out, it may or could cause the drywall paper tape and the entire initial coat of drywall mud to warp if you try to fill the big gaps at the same time as you try to apply your initial tape coating. 

If you take the time to prefill the gaps with filled and leveled amount of all purpose mud and let that coat of mud dry before you apply the tape coat, the all purpose compound mud in the drywall gaps will not negatively affect the tape, or only a touch here or there on the entire interior. To prefill the gaps simply use an all-purpose mud compound and a small flexible putty knife like Black & Silver 2-Inch Flexible Putty Knife or a 4-inch or 6 inch knife. A smaller knife fits in a bucket easier.

When prefilling the drywall gaps and joints between the drywall boards, be carefully press the drywall mud compound directly into the joint, and then wipe away the excess mud from under the tape, and off with the drywall knife or blade of the putty knife. You simply don’t want any drywall mud buildup on the face of the drywall so wipe it away while its wet and easy to get at. Always be sure to allow all the mud in the drywall joints to dry completely for a full 24 hour period before the next step of applying the first taping coat.

DON’T overlap drywall tape because you will see it for ever.

Professionals know that applying only a single layer of drywall paper tape is the right approach, the only way to do the job, and will help you minimize any chances of your taping results ending up with bubbles in the tape or a bulge in the finished wall you can never hide. Begin by applying a thin layer of compound to a single vertical joint using a quality knife, such as 6-Inch Flexible Black & Silver Stainless Steel Joint Knife. Its flexible blade will distribute mud uniformly over the joints. 

Then, immediately after applying mud to the entire length of a single vertical joint, position a strip of paper tape (about two inches shorter than the joint) over the wet mud. Pull the joint knife smoothly—working from the middle of the tape to each end—to bed the tape securely in the mud. Repeat with all vertical joints. When you tape horizontal joints, cut the tape so it fits between the vertical joints without overlap. If they do overlap, they will probably leave bumps.

DO take steps to reduce the mess caused by wet compound.

As you tape, you’ll find that splatters of drywall compound go just about everywhere: in your hair, on your clothing, and on everything else in the room. Wear a hat, protective eyewear (drywall compound stings!), and old clothing that you can toss when you’re done. Remove furniture from the room, and cover the floor with a canvas drop cloth.

DON’T skip nail or screw holes while applying each coat of compound.

It takes just a dab of compound to cover the head of a fastener. Smooth out the compound with your 6-inch joint knife. Only the dimple over the fastener should have any mud—the wall around it should be completely clear. Wipe the knife over the fastener a second time in a different direction to remove any excess mud.

DO cut away bubbles that form in the paper tape.

After the initial coat of compound dries, check for bubbles in the paper tape. These indicate that there wasn’t enough mud on the wall beneath the tape or that you may not have pressed the tape firmly enough with your joint knife. Fear not: You can remove these blips. Use a sharp utility knife, such as  Auto-Lock 18mm Utility Knife that features snap-off blades, to cut around the edge of the bubble, and then remove the loose piece of tape. Apply a dab of fresh mud over the bubble, smooth it out, and let it dry.

DON’T apply the next coat of mud over bits of dry compound.

While it’s important to smooth the compound with each coating, it’s common to end up with a few slight ridges caused by excess mud that escaped the corners of the knife and dried. These, in addition to any unintentional flecks of compound, should be removed before applying the next coat. Scrape them off using a taping knife, such as ’ 8-Inch Pro Hardwood Stainless Steel Extruded Backing Taping Knife. Rather than pulling the knife as you do when you spread the compound, simply push the edge of the blade along the wall to scrape off any hardened bits of compound.

DO apply multiple thin coats instead of a thick coating of mud.

The biggest secret to a professional finish? Apply three or more coats of very thin compound rather than one or two heavier coats. Yes, it takes time for the compound to dry, but don’t try to rush the drywall taping process along by applying fewer, thicker coats. Doing so only increases your sanding time, and you may never be able to get the joints completely smooth. As well, compound shrinks slightly as it dries, so thick layers have a tendency to buckle and warp, leaving you with a hardened, lumpy mess.

DON’T forget to feather out joints.

“Feathering” involves applying a coat of mud and then using a taping knife to smooth the edges of the compound so thin that it’s hard to tell where the mud stops and the wall starts. It’s a technique that takes practice and quality tools. For most feathering situations, a good 10-inch taping knife, such as 10-Inch Pro Project Blue Steel Extruded Backing Taping Knife, will give the best results. Hold the taping knife at a 45-degree angle and use light pressure—just enough to smooth out the edge, but not enough that you make a ridge in the mud.

DO add an extra swath of mud on each side of butt joints.

While standard drywall joints (where the long edges of two panels meet) have a factory bevel that accommodates a four-inch coating of compound, butt joints (where the ends of two panels meet) do not. There, the compound you apply tends to build up over the joint. To make these joints less noticeable, apply the first coat of mud and paper tape as usual, but apply two additional swaths—8 to 10 inches wide—on either side of the second coat of mud. This will give you a swath that spans 20 to 30 inches across the butt joint. By spreading the compound out over a wider distance, the joint will be less obvious. With each successive coat, continue to spread the mud in the same manner over the entire joint.

DON’T sand before protecting yourself and your home.

Your top coat has dried and you’re probably anxious to see just how smooth the finish turned out, but don’t start sanding until you have dust protection in place. Tape plastic sheeting over doorways, vents, and registers to keep drywall dust from filtering throughout the rest of the house. Wear old clothing, a hat, protective eyewear, and a full respirator mask. Drywall dust is incredibly invasive. It will cling to everything and even travel out of the room if you’re not careful.

If you have a lot of sanding to do, it’s a good idea to invest in Professional Dust-Free Pole Sander. This sanding pad connects to a shop vacuum that will suck up most of the dust as you smooth walls top to bottom. While you should still wear some protective gear, the Dust-Free Pole Sander will remove up to 99 percent of the drywall dust that otherwise gets into the air. Hope these tips will help you with your drywall taping.