Drywall Boarding Calgary

Professional Interior Drywall Boarding Services.

Drywall Boarding Calgary - Interior Calgary Drywall Boarding
Professional Drywall Boarding And Drywall Reboarding Services By 1/2 Price Pro Calgary Painting. Looking at getting some drywall boarding work done on your interior? 1/2 Price Pro Calgary Painting can help you save time and money on professional drywall services and help get your interior drywall boarded, taped, textured, painted, and decorated for less. We've completed hundreds of drywall boarding finishes on hundreds of house, home, residential, and commercial interior properties and helped almost all of our customers save money on most common types of drywall boarding services.

We can likely help you get a good deal on drywall prices. From boarding to taping to texturing to painting we can help you with your interior drywall boarding needs for less and offer you complete finished drywall boarding services. Super high quality drywall boarding services from drywall boarding professionals that have thousands of drywall boarding jobs completed. When you need pro drywall boarding services and a more affordable drywall boarding solution think about giving us a call. Our pro drywall boarding services can accommodate most budgets without compromising or cutting any corners.

Need new drywall boarding for your house interior, garage interior, or your residential or commercial office space? We can help you with some of the most cheap, inexpensive, cost effective and low cost professional drywall boarding services in town. Before you think about signing any type of drywall boarding contract with any other drywall boarding professionals out there get a free drywall boarding estimate or price quote from us first. If you are thinking about renovating your interior complete with ceiling texture and a new paint job over top of new trim we can save you the most money.

We complete drywall boarding projects of all sizes. From simple garage finishing to residential house drywall boarding to commercial office space drywall boarding our drywall professionals can handle any sized drywall boarding job you might have in mind. Get in touch today and we can get you a price quote or estimate the same day. Sometimes inside of an hour. You have nothing to lose and money and time to save hiring our drywall boarding professionals for all of your drywall boarding needs.

You are in good hands. We have hundreds of happy drywall board customers and clients we can put you in touch with and thousands of pictures in our drywall boarding portfolio for you to review. We take care of all the details. For the absolute best bang for your buck give us a call for a complete interior drywall boarding job. We try to save you money on all types of drywall work, aim to please, and we're only satisfied when we deliver you the highest in quality almost near perfect drywall finishes.

Say no to paying to much for drywall boarding. Our team of drywall boarding technicians can board large and small areas very quickly and cleanly and save you money on most types of drywall boarding needs. Big or small we drywall board it all and you'll love our pricing and the results. Hundreds of happy drywall customers and clients can't be wrong. And you won't be either calling us in for a price quote or an estimate and to complete your work.

So today we're going to take the time to teach you everything you need to know about installing drywall. How, why, what to do, the right products, the right tools, the right materials, so you got everything you need to drywall board in a good job. So first of all, let's just talk drywall turkey. 

Drywall is basically just dust pressed between paper. It's that simple. You have two edges on drywall. You have the factory edge, or the butt joint, and then you have the other edge, which is a tapered edge that rides a certain depth. Then it has a little scoop here, and the idea being, when you put two of these tapered joints together, all you need is one paper, tape joint, a fill coat, and then a finish coat. 

Nice and simple. You always have a gorgeous joint. The more joints you can have, that have the paper on them, the less work, and the easier it is to finish. Every time you put two butt ends together, you've got to go through another step taping there, it takes another coat of application, and it takes a little bit of trick, so you got to have a lot more skill to do that kind of joint. 

Fortunately for us, this room here it's pretty small, so we're just going to go with all full sheets drywall. This is 3/8 thick. This is half inch. It adjusts the depth here. The idea is, when you put two sheets together, you can tape that with only three steps, nice and simple. When you have really long walls, drywall that comes in 8's, 9's, 10's, 12's. 

If the wall is longer than 12 foot,  then you're going to have a joint. It's going to be a butt joint, and that takes a little bit more skill when it comes to the taping, and how to finish that. We'll show you that soon in the drywall taping page, but for today, we'll talk about how to install this board. Now that's pretty flexible. Don't have a lot of strength to it, so you need to have enough support in behind a wall to hold the stuff. 

You can't just frame 24 in on center, and use regular drywall. You're better to go with 16 inch. So basically your tools are simple. You need a knife, You need tape measure, need a drill, Phillips bit. But where most people, and this is interesting, make the mistake, they go to the store, and they buy their screws, and then box says drywall screws, so they grab it. 

But there's a lot of different lengths, and there's two different threads, so what I want you to know is the fine thread screw is for metal stud framing, mostly for commercial. I don't recommend metal framing in your house. You want to buy the course threaded screw. It's a wider thread, it'll grab wood better. Fine thread screw in wood does tend to end up popping out on you because it doesn't have a wide enough thread to really grab the wood. 

As painters that do a bit of renovation painting, we see homeowners and do it your self type make this mistake all the time. Sometimes is ignorant, sometimes is laziness. Now here you can buy your screws and all kinds of different lengths. The secret is this. You take the thickness of your drywall, half an inch.

You multiply that by one and a half, that's three quarters of an inch. You add those two numbers together, that gives you the length of your screw. So remember, whatever your screwing into your screw has to be one and a half times longer in the material you're screwing into than what you're attaching to the wall. 

So you got a half inch material. You need an inch and a quarter. If you're installing type x or 5/8 drywall you got to go to 1 and 5/8. If you're installing 2 layers you go to 2 inch like is common in some types of commercial applications We can have screws up to 2 and 1/2 in, but use the right length of screw, so that you're not accidentally screwing right into somebody else's wire. 

That's key. Electricians run their wiring at a certain depth of the wall to guarantee there won't be contact. If your screws too long and you pierce a wire, you pay the electrician's bill. Or you could cause a fire or a smoke show. It's not the electricians fault. 

So when it comes to cutting tools for your drywall, you really have three basic options. One is the knife. The standard. And when you're cutting drywall, the knife really simple. You want to just use the tip of the knife cut the paper. It's just really delicate. You don't have to dig all the way in. If you get past the paper you're going to be cutting into that powder, it'll dull your blade so fast. 

And then it's dangerous because a dull knife is the one that's going to cut you. The other cutting tool I like to use is the rotozip. Mine has a little bit bigger bit on it here so my my bit is wider than usual just turn it on. I should mention. The reason this wall is finished we are operating is because we had spray foam in this building, so we wanted to cover that up for fire safety sake. 

So we have a window to cut out here. I'm just going to cut the majority of this window out demonstrate how this tool operates. Now it makes a little bit of dust, and it has a nasty screeching sound. So people who don't like that nails on the chalkboard might be bothered. Here we go. Daylight. This tool is incredibly effective around plug boxes because you can stick it in run it to the box jump the other side and then just follow the contour. Always use this tool counterclockwise. 

And then you'll have great success. Now if you don't have a rodozip, the only other option is good old sweat, blood, and tears using one of these little drywall saws. These can be real effective. The teeth are going two different directions, so be careful. If you cut yourself with this you cannot stitch yourself back together, it'll be a nasty mess, and it'll take weeks to heal. 

So before you start your drywall installation, the basic process is, your ceiling first, then the walls. There's no real science to it, other than the fact that when you're doing your joints, if the wall board is pushed up into the ceiling, it closes up the gap, it gets rid of all of those little errors that you have with the rooms being un square when you're cutting the wall. 

So you can have a little gap around the outside of the room. It'll cover with the walls and panels afterwards. It's not really supporting anything. We are screwing it to the ceiling after all so, what we want to do is inspect your ceiling before you close. You're looking for a few major things. 

Your heat runs is the first thing to take a look at before you screw the board into place. Is there insulation between your wires and your heat runs. This is brutally important in our region. If it's not important in your area, it's still good practice. Better safe than sorry right. We have it in our electrical code that there must be insulation between the wire and heat sources as to not overheat the wires and cause fire. 

Secondly make notes of where your light fixtures are, your smoke alarms, your heat runs, these are all things that you want to make sure that you take care of before you get started, because we can use our rotor zip tool to cut around the boxes and all that sort of thing, but only once the fixtures are removed.

So this light is in the way. It is simple. We know the powers off to this. All we got to do is just back off the screws and you could use a knife or a screwdriver. Sometimes we just cut the wires because there's lots of length here, and I know an electrician can wire this back up again for me no problem. All right so we can pull that loose, and we're going to pull this loose. 

All right. Always wrap these things up before you put them back in the box just in case somebody hits the light switch by accident. Okay so what we have here is an interconnected smoke alarm, CO2 alarm. You can tell it's interconnected because it has a ton of wires coming in and out of this bad boy. As soon as I take this off it's going to start making a horrible noise. 

So we're going to wait until we're ready to put the drywall up just so we don't lose our sanity. So I'm just inspecting the ceiling, and I see I got a couple of nails sticking down. Just grab a hammer and smash those down and in. And we're missing one piece of stropping on the outside. So before we put up our ceiling, I'm going to make sure we have strapping. 

The same we want every 16 in on a wall. You want to have your strapping on your ceiling about the same. It's very narrow. It's 1x3 is what I'm using, so usually when you're strapping if you screw the middle the stropping will dry out and twist a little bit, so what you want to do is, you want to put two screws in, just to make sure you're getting both sides and twisting motion doesn't happen. 

And I'll alternate that every other stropping. Just go in the middle for simplicity, because we drive install our drywall contrary to the stripping. We're not concerned about whether it's perfectly on 16,  some guys I see they try to make sure that there wood is perfectly centered so they can install their wood and on the joint. 

It's a lot extra work. If you just measure off your room, put your drywall the opposite direction, it goes up a lot faster. So here's another reno tip for you. When you're screwing near the end of a piece of spruce, put the drill on reverse, and push, and see you see smoke. When you see smoke, you've cauterized that wound. 

If you just drive a screw in a piece of strapping like this, it will split on you. Now we're done. We're ready to install our drywall. The only thing left to do now is carry it down here from the truck, so let's go get the 10-ft sheets. Home depot and hardware stores that sell drywall typically also do drywall delivery. Save your back. For a couple hundred extra you can have drywall delivered to any room. 

No time to waste. Time is money. When you're putting up a ceiling, you need to remember that you're going to have a half inch drywall on either side coming up, so you've got lots of room there for variance. So instead of worry about if the room is square or not, we're going to do is going to take the actual measurement, take a half an inch off, and then when we install, we'll try to split the difference in the gap, and put a quarter inch on each side, so our actual measurement, is 118 and 3/4/ So we'll install it with 18 and 1/4 that's the 10-ft sheet of drywall. We'll let's go get that cut.

Hope that helps. Installing drywall board to a perfect finish takes a lot of work and skill. For the best results you should really be thinking about calling in a drywall boarding professional with lots of experience. Our friendly and skilled painters at 1/2 Price Pro Calgary Painting can likely help you with all of your drywall boarding needs. Give us a call @ (587) 800-2801 and get an obligation free price quote today. We might be able to save you some time and money and delivery perfect drywall boarding results.