Friday, February 11, 2022

Priming And Painting New Drywall With A Brush & Roller

Priming And Painting New Drywall With A Brush & Roller

Hey out there again, and thanks for stopping in and checking out our priming and painting new drywall blog post here on our cheap Calgary painters internet blog website. If you just happen to be thinking about priming and painting new drywall in your home or office with a brush and roller, or are considering calling in a painting professional to complete priming and painting new drywall services for you, this blog post is just for you.

So, you know what's even more fun than watching paint dry so you can get on with the second, third, or forth coats of paint? Watching brand new paint with chunks in it strain into a paint strainer. So yeah today's blog post is going to start off with a couple words about primer, paint, stain, etc. Always use brand new paint and supplies from the paint store or the hardware store when you paint. And always be sure you strain your paint products after a good shaking.  

Here is a quick run down on how some pro painters like to prime drywall. Now first off, what kind of primer and paint are we using. So today to start with for the primer, we have a Sherwin-Williams PVA drywall primer and sealer. We will talk about the paint we will use later. For now let's review the primer that has worked for us plenty of times and should work for you too. 

Now this Sherwin Williams PVA primer is not necessarily my favorite stuff to use. Personally we like multi-purpose sealers like stain blocking sealers. The stuff that you can smell. A whole lot of ammonia in it like Bins123 water-based ones, or zinzer oil based stain killer ones. Of course we like those really strong primer sealers that get the job done on just about any surface a painter will come across..

Whereas this one is what is it saying Oh it says PVA drywall primer and sealer. But there's just a different level of like grip, and bite that the other ones have, and I think also they're better at blocking out moisture and stuff. Anyways though this is what we have to work with here today, PVA drywall primer and sealer. 

It's pretty clean in here after we dusted everything off the new board. I've already given the place a really good vacuum, like the floor, and all the perimeter, and once I'm done that, I like to vacuum the openings in the walls just to make sure that there's not like big crumbly chunks of anything at all that are going to get rolled into my paint or make its way back into the paint can when I start brushing and rolling the walls in.

Next I like to take a beat up old paintbrush, and I like to get in all the corners, and get any extra dust out that I couldn't get while vacuuming. So next, I go over all the inside corners, especially making sure to get any little clumps of dust out. It's the corners that I actually worry about, so a lot of people worry about the whole wall. I don't worry about the whole wall. It's just actual clumps of dust in the corner that I'm concerned about cuz those will come up and get in your finish and into your roller and back in to the paint tray, and just make a mess.

Other painters say that it stops the paint from actually sticking, but as for the stuff the small amount on the actual wall, I don't worry about that, I find that that just gets mixed in with the paint and doesn't cause any problems especially with a good amount of back rolling so that's all I really do for prep. 

All right next rollers so as for what kind of rollers I personally like to use I like a good old-fashioned roller. Microfibers are probably the best sleeve you can use. I've had good luck and bad luck with microfibers. If you get a good one they hold a ton of paint they go really far they leave a really nice flat finish with most paints. But if you get a bad one they can leave some really nasty textures and they keep sliding off the roller, and that's been my experience. 

So if in doubt because of that just stick to the regular old you know lint-free regular rollers. In terms of size I'm pretty specific about this actually. So for priming drywall especially fresh mud I like to actually put some texture on there, so I'm using a half inch nap which is like that I think a 15 in metric. I'll often even use a 3/4 or a 19 mil for priming only. 

I will use that for priming fresh mud and fresh board because it adds a little more texture to it. You then go and sand that down when it's dry and then you can go down and size on your nap like sometimes I'll use maybe 10 for my finish coats after using a thicker one for my first coat because like I said it adds some texture. Sand it down a little bit then you put two more coats of paint over top of that and it ends up looking really nice. 

And your patches blend really well so that's super important to me. Like I said I don't use a 10 mil roller on my prime coat it just doesn't leave enough texture and it doesn't hold enough paint or primer even if it's a good microfiber sleeve. So here half inch or 15 mil you know nothing too much to say about the roller cage except I like to buy good quality ones. I can't stand those ones that are really flimsy here and you push it against the wall and you can feel the whole thing bend. 

So I find you know spending like the extra five bucks on a good roller cage makes a big difference in your painting and as for handles I generally run around with a two foot extension handle that's good enough for most things I do. That's the old typical two foot to four foot extension poles most pro painters will roll with 90% of the time. 

You know of course use a bigger one if you need a bigger one but for what we're doing today I mean I can reach the ceilings with my hands so not a big deal anyways time to get this thing saturated before slamming it onto the wall. It always takes like rolling out three or four walls to really get your sleeve wet with primer or wet with paint. Finally managed to get enough paint in there but then the thing actually fell in here so half a gallon is going to be enough for me today. 

This is definitely enough for priming these walls and now it's nice and empty not full of crumbs is what I'm trying to say. Always be sure you strain your paint. Pro painters always strain the paint to avoid getting junk on the finished product. I always want to get your roller nice and saturated first spend a little time doing this I mean it really doesn't start to get full until you start doing your first few pushes on the wall but you may as well take a little time to make sure that it has a good start. 

So that should be good enough for the first push so I always start with rolling first now fresh drywall is really absorbent, very porous it really sucks it, really sucks the moisture out of the paint quickly, so you have to move fast when you do this. Most pro painters can prime out 4 full walls in most rooms in just minutes. Now the reason I like to start with rolling first is because it's so much easier to just roll first. 

And then cut in the little like one inch or half inch that you weren't able to get into the corner whereas when you try and start by brushing what you'll notice is there's so much drag in your way. Your brush will slide easier on the half primed rolled in drywall close to the corners. It will be a more difficult prime job to wipe in the primer first. Not to mention most people leave a 3 to 4 plus inch landing pad of primer or paint that completely wastes time and money because the finish rolling rolls in half an inch from the corners on the finish coat.

Also more likely to get it drying out, and getting hard edges, and it just generally doesn't look as nice. So when priming fresh drywall I always start by rolling first, and you can spread your paint out a little bit however you need to back rolling is always the most important part here. So just getting in there trying not to get too much crusty from that cut out the routered edge. The pros would be spray painting the primer while another painter is a few feet beside him backrolling the primer or paint in for mass production priming and painting.

I'm going to call that back rolled well enough. So what back rolling is is going back over the whole thing and equalizing the paid spread and finish texture. Need a little bit of paint right here down to here rolling into my old work a little bit we'll get some close-ups in a bit here and now that my roller isn't super saturated and I put that paint right here a bit ago. 

I'm now going to just gently equalize it all okay there's our first awkward bit done and there's still crusties in this paint I don't know how that's even possible could have been from the edge of this cut okay yeah you want to move quick what you don't want is to leave any edge for a very long time like I've got this edge right here that all the paint is or all the moisture is getting sucked out of this paint. 

And I got to get back to it real quick these awkward spots can be kind of annoying because they take up a fair bit of time, and if you don't get back to your edge fast enough then it gets hard and you get a line, you'll have this obvious line in your work. So some people like to do double use and stuff when they put their paint on it first I'm not one of those people or painters. 

And I especially don't do it when priming fresh drywall because I don't like to leave anything not rolled out for very long. So I find that when I'm doing fresh drywall especially this roller isn't fully saturated yet I don't usually get much further than one good roller line at a time. You know I can get like one and a half or two rolls but generally what starts to happen is at that point I'm not leaving enough texture or enough paint on the wall. 

Always use enough paint. But we should be able to start moving a little faster soon here I get more out in the open, and once this gets more saturated. So that's another good argument for using a 3/4 inch nap as you can go further between having to load up primer or paint in the tray again. Aim for half a sheet to a full sheet between loading the roller again. See I'm getting about one and a half rolls and I back roll a little just to make sure I'm not leaving any lines. 

If you're new to painting it can really help to have some glancing light going down the wall so you can see if you're leaving big roller lines or little awkward spots. Thinner primer and paint really help with lines and dirty tools are usually the biggest reason you get most lines. Okay so there is a way to paint too right like there's a way to leave the pressure and let the roller do the work. Nice and easy rolling don't try to roll your roller dry. 

I mean we've done so much drywall blog posts where we talk about how to shift the pressure on your blade so that you're leaving lift offs instead of harsh to edges and with a roller it's the same thing we'll get into that in a second here just going to finish this and we'll do it somewhere we can get a little more close up and get some glancing light on it. 

That's good that's looking good okay I'm hoping the lighting and space is good enough to try and explain back rolling here so I got my roller nice and saturated and we're just going to push it as far as it'll go so because this is a shorter stretch that was easily able to get a couple there and I'm actually even just going to load up and do this part too. 

I'm going to stay about 3/4 of an inch away from this thing as close as I can comfortably roll and now I'm back rolling because hopefully you can see that this paint is just all over the place, it's super thick here, super thin here, super thick here, so this is what back rolling is. And remember try and go up and even amount every time you go up, but we're going backwards, and so right now the pressure is on this part of the roller, but it's not leaving line on the right hand side of the roller every time. 

And I'm pretty fussy here so we're going to get right up to this corner putting a fair bit of pressure to make sure there's even coverage but not leaving line, and now I'm actually even going to really quickly just go back over here. And I'm making sure the top get that kind of even line. A little bit of fluff from the new roller. That's looking good right even texture, let's take a look at it. We got a couple spots here that didn't fill in with mud properly but I can live with that painter will fix it. 

If we take a good look we can see that top edge is pretty even it's going to be an easy cut in once that dries got one little thing going on here might be a little paint drip that's why we sand the walls after the first coat knocks down stuff like that. So you can move quickly and not have to worry about it there's the couple of deficiencies that need to filled. Other probably be behind like a tile backsplash or something but getting up close let's take a look at the texture. 

I'll try and move really slow you can see the texture is very even here so I'm pretty happy with that three coats of texture like that will help the drywall look more like the old walls again now when I say more like the old walls obviously I don't mean that I want my nice new walls to look like crappy old walls. 

What I mean is that there's an even paint texture is like a nice old wall with lots of coats of paint on it it's got that really consistent texture you can't see where the mud is you can't see what the difference between the paper and the mud is so that's what we're going for by trying to add a little bit of texture at the painting stage and back roll. 

So there's not much more to say at this point, I think I just going to roll these walls out and then we'll get back into it at the cutting end stage so you guys can see how that works, and not like any of this is anything new there's a million and one videos on painting on YouTube, but you know you've been watching all my methods for what I like to do exactly how I like to do it when it comes to painting.

Well had a nice coffee break, paints dry enough to cut in the corners, and it's time to do that while the paint is still wet enough on the brush to do so. Now in terms of what kind of brush I like to use I'm a pretty straightforward guy here two and a half inch angle brush nothing fancy medium stiffness you know, under $5 for a brand new one at the local pro paint store but apparently triple the price for the same brush anywhere else except at the local pro paint store.

We just we just want to get some paint in these corners to start. I always start at the tops or at the top of the walls and cut in the top part of the walls first. This is the industry standard. Okay now that it's all dry we can put the pedal to the metal and just paint it up. As you can see you can feather the edge real nicely because you're going on to the already painted surface. 

So it really has such a benefit to roll first very easy to feather that edge, yep feathering the edges important and painting too. Always do both sides at the same time, that way I'm not going into half dry paint in the corner when I come back to do the other side, they're both wet, so it's nice and easy. They're just trying to go as far as I can go. 

And your first your first time hitting the three-way. Oh no like that what I'm talking about here your first time in the three-way corner right here, is really hard to get like totally full perfect coverage, so don't worry about it too much. You know there's going to be a little bit of brush marks in lines right in that corner because it's kind of hard to not pull a bit of it out sometimes. So just know that when you come back to do your coats on the ceiling and walls you're going to be able to make that look better so don't get too fussed about it. 

You know when you're at the priming stage you got to remember there's some wiggle room got a couple more coats a couple more opportunities to make it look better. I'll bust too much. It's kind of like fussing too much about how it looks at the taping stage. The taping stage of drywall instead of worrying about like is my tape stuck to the wall, and not going to come off. That's what you really need to worry about when you're taping. 

And probably the reason that I am no longer talking about priming drywall is because there's actually nothing more to say. So why don't I get this finish and then we'll take a quick look at how it all looks. You can see what my freshly primed work looks like. And this was on the lope here this is like my b+ work this is not my A+ work. You know that's all it called for anyways, let's get to that in a bit. 

All right let's take a look at the work you guys so we got the tearaway bead pulled off and looking good. You may have seen in a past blog post on our site and the paint still a little bit wetter in the corner as you can see we're looking pretty good. You know my b+ work you know little deficiency there that's going to be behind cabinets. That's what makes it my b+ work his little things like. 

Bhat but generally I'm super happy with how it turned out nice smooth walls and you can see the difference so there's the paper, there's the mud, it's a little bit smoother, but a couple more coats should be perfect anyways. I'm pretty happy with how this place is looking. The old ring light that ring light has such like a blue white light and now that this place is all a sort of grayish blueish white yeah that's how it is. 

Anyways I'm done that's how I prime my fresh drywall hopefully that gave you some good tips, tricks,  whatever. If you do it differently of course Now that I'm done painting this now I get to open up this wall so we can push this into the wall is no big deal I don't really care it's just a little patch anyways I'm done ready to go home I hope you guys are doing well again hope you got something out of this. If you just paid top dollars for professional drywall boarding and taping you should consider hiring in a pro painter to complete your priming and painting.

The pro painters and decorators over at 1/2 Price Pro Calgary Painting can likely help you save some time and some money on both priming and painting new drywall. You could even get better pricing on our friendly Calgary Painters completing all of your new priming and painting new drywall with a brush & roller work instead of you doing it yourself and risking a not so great looking paint job.

Wednesday, February 2, 2022

Paint Your Ceilings Fast With An Airless Paint Sprayer

Paint Your Ceilings Fast With An Airless Paint Sprayer

Hey out there again, Pro Calgary Painters here again. Do you want to know how to spray with an airless paint sprayer? Maybe you're thinking about renting one if you got a big job or not. I'm going to give you a little rundown on it. They're not really that hard. We're not going to show you every detail because each airless spray painting machine is a little bit different, but I'm going to give you some pointers show you how it works to help paint your ceilings fast with an airless paint sprayer.

And it's my goal as a 20+ year painting professional who owns his own business, and has a small team  of dedicated employees is to help you save time and save money on ceiling painting. It's my goal in this paint your ceilings fast with an airless paint sprayer blog post to pass on my knowledge, and my skills to you guys and do what we can to save you some hard ceiling painting labor. 

We often use our Cheap Calgary Painting interior website to help you guys learn how to tackle these projects yourself, save yourself some money, take pride in your workmanship, or what to talk about and watch out for if you are considering hiring in a painting contractor to complete the ceiling painting work for you. You should be aiming for high quality professional finished painting results. 

Our team is going to show you how to do it right. So if you like these kind of blog posts be sure to share it with all your friends. All right, first let's go over a few details about an airless. An airless paint sprayer is actually called an airless because it doesn't pump air into it. But the act of spraying, the material coming out of here the spray tip. 

Now you might hear it moves a lot of primer and paint from the paint bucket to the ceiling with minimal effort. Very similar to when you go to the car wash, and you spray it in, air goes everywhere, water goes everywhere. Well it's still doing a lot of air moving, so it must seem like it's not airless. But it's doing it simply by pumping the fluid under pressure through this tip. 

It often comes out of here to a PSI of a running 500 to 3,000 I forget the PSI exactly, but it's very high pressure. So number one, there's a safety concern. Never get your skin in front of this tip, because that can actually inject paint right under your skin, and be very dangerous. You can get in serious trouble so make sure you always treat this kind of like a gun. 

Don't walk around with your hand on the trigger if you're not prepared to spray, that would be safety number one. The parts to this gun are basically this. They call it a hand tight connector which means you should be able to loosen it by hand without tools. It doesn't require a ton of force so once you get it lined up pretty much where you want, you just hand tighten it. 

The other part to this is your tip now. These spray tips coming all kinds of different spray tip sizes and patterns. They're removable. Right, on to the tips. This green tip is what's called I believe it's called a fine finish tip, which there's another kind of fine finish for like spraying lacquers in, but this is for airless and latex paint. And what it does is it atomizes the paint a lot easier under lower pressure. 

This airless paint sprayer I have is about a $800 airless. The model is a ProX19, and it was like I say 8 or $900, but in that price range it can struggle a little bit. Airless sprayers. It's it's hard work for a new pump. This out right what was happening with mine was when I used a normal tip in here it was struggling to not give me tail 

Okay here's an illustration of what tails are. You see the normal pattern. Well tails are when you get basically these little tail streamers or lines out on the sides of the spray, and it can really ruin your paint job and the final finish. And that's usually caused by low pressure settings on the paint machine. And low pressure could be because you don't have the pressure knob turned up high enough. 

But often it's because you've got clogged filters, and there can be filters in your gun, and on the machine, or even at the suction intake, or it could be that you're using too big of a tip, which doesn't allow the machine to atomize it properly. Or your machine may even be too small, and you could be spraying something that's too thick for your machine. So there's a lot of variables here. 

But, if you got everything in good order, you usually just need to turn the pressure up. So anyway in order to avoid lines and tails in your spray painting finish make sure you got good pressure. I went to this tip here, which takes less pressure to atomize it, which means breaking it up into that fine pattern, and it has a little less overspray. 

It kind of comes out gentler. I think it sprays great. I love the tip myself, and it took away the problem with tails and lines, so this is a tip I would recommend. If you're renting an airless paint sprayer and have to buy it tip. Now if you rent one, one of the things to look for is the tip pattern, cuz if they give you a gun with a worn out tip, you can still use it like seasoned professional painters do, but it's going to use more paint, and it's not going to do as good a job. 

You may want to complain and get another tip. I'll show you tip patterns. Here okay, let me talk about this switchable tip. They call this a switchable tip. And one direction is spraying the nice fan pattern, but if you get a clog, which happens fairly often, you can turn this around, and it'll spray backwards,  which means the clogged particles or chunks or junk can be sprayed out of the plugged tip. 

Over here, now it'll just spray it out. So you do a quick burst, clean it up, switch back in your spray again. Okay let me explain tip sizes. You notice the one on the left says 210. The one on the right is 516. That is the tip size. There's two parts to a tip size. So let's take the example of 210. The first part is two, which means at a normal spraying distance it will spray 4 in wide. 

The 10 is the opening size. So it has a smaller opening size than the 516. It's on a 516. It should spray about 10 inches wide, and will let more fluid or paint or primer or lacquer come out. Therefore you can either spray faster, or it will put it on heavier coat. I normally spray with about a 619 or 516. 519 somewhere in there. And that works good on big surfaces like ceilings and walls. The smaller tips are for like spraying trim work and things like that.

All right let me point out something about the airless tip. If you want it, there's a pressure setting on your sprayer. A lot of painters call it the pump, so check the pump pressure settings. And you do not want the highest pressure. The higher the pressure you spray at, The more overspray. It's going to atomize it more, and when it over atomizes, it you're just going to have fog, and it's just spray. 

So one way to check is to spray a test pattern on some masking like this. And I usually just do a little burst so like that, and then look at it. And you want this shape. You want it to be narrow, no tails on the end like I showed you earlier. And clean. And if you turn it down, and you start getting tails, that tells you that you went too low, then crank it back up a notch or two. 

That's usually about where you want it. If it feels like it's coming out too slow, you might turn it up a little bit more. If you see too much overspray, you can just feel like there's a fog everywhere. It's too high. So you'll kind of see when I spray there's not really that much fog going everywhere. So now when spraying I do highly recommend a full spraying gear. 

Because it'll get your paint color in your ears, on your face, and over over yourself. So I have this full suit. We usually get them at Cloverdale or Dulux paint stores. They are only a couple dollars each.  I've tried a lot of them that just rip really quickly, and they don't fit me. I'm 6'2, and I need a tall one, so this one fits me good. And then I absolutely love the ones with the hood. 

You can get a spray sock too, but often the spray sock leaves exposed gaps, and it just doesn't fit right. Just saying I put this up, and it covers everything that my mask doesn't. So I like to wear gloves, and I wet my gloves, and that makes it easier to if I need to wipe a little paint off something, maybe it drift or whatever. Wet gloves work better and it keeps my hands clean. 

So if any paint gets onto the gloves with wet gloves when I take them off, it just comes right off my hands. Basically covered head to toe. Now let's talk about the mask. You can get a simple respirator which is what is inside of this. It's a simple respirator, but this is a full face mask. Now they run about $100 plus, so if you're on a budget, you might want just this part, and just cover up as much as you can.

Wear some goggles, and you're going to end up with paint on you. There are products you can put on your skin that's supposed to make it come off easier. I've been spraying with a full face mask for so long I can't remember how I used to do it. We are painters so we paint a lot, but when I do these popcorn ceilings, I pretty much paint 90% of them ceilings.

And these things have a tear off face shield. So when they get really dirty, you can clean them over and over, but eventually it just comes to point where you're not seeing through it clear. Rip it off clean. This part underneath. Put a new one on, and you're good to go. And then these respirators have these interchangeable parts. There's a pre-filter right in here. 

That's good for capturing a lot of that mist that gets on, and then inside is the real filter. That'll last you quite a long time. It ain't got your pre filters. I just basically base it on if it starts getting hard to breathe. I change out the pre-filter, if that doesn't solve it, I need a new filter. And they just come on and off like that. So they're pretty simple to swap a new one out, and this part just pops off. 

In a pre-filters right in there, it's pretty easy to breathe in them. What sucks about it is they're going to get covered in paint while you're spraying. Even if you're trying to stay away from it, it's going to get a mist on it pretty soon. It gets harder and harder to see, so I keep a microfiber cloth nearby, and every now and then I go over and I'll use my wet gloves to wipe off the paint and then I microfiber polish it so I can see it again. 

So that's the safety gears talk. About the ceiling painting. Now most of us didn't grow up a painter. We found the trade, went to school, got trained, painted out thousands of new construction buildings and houses and homes along the way earning our red seal certification tickets, and learned a few save money and time tricks along the way.  

I'm spraying a primer today. That's about $50 for five gallons. It's a PVA drywall primer from Lowe's,  but let's get on to spraying. What you're trying to do when you spray is to get a 50% overlap on all your paint. So here's the little demo that I was talking about with 50%. You would go one pass there, and then starting right here, holding your gun roughly 12 to 14 inches away, you go another path. 

And I like to trigger, but not often. You might see some painters that do the constant spray. Those guys are really good. They've done it a lot. You can get away with it, but what happens is, every time you come to the end, you slow down. It'll get thicker on the ends, and you're trying to put this on as evenly as you can that's one reason you do 50% overlaps. 

It just puts it on more even. So again hold it about 12 inches away, move it at a steady speed, keep the speed the same all the time. Try not to speed up or slow down. Don't go and zigzag line. Asolutely do not do some kind of filler then pattern. Just needs to be a very distinct pattern this way 50%. This back and forth and you want to try and go from one wall to the other with primers. 

Not quite so critical, but what happens is if you don't, each time you come back, you get heavier right there on that overlap. You can't help it, and the heavier it is, the more likely it is to have a different gloss and it will give it away. You'll have these banding stripy looks, so it's best if you can go from wall to wall like the pro's typically do it, to get the best of the best results.

Now another way you can help even it out as you can. Back roll it. Which means take a roller loaded up with some paint, and real lightly roll it out a little bit on the ceiling. Because you just want to light load on that roller, and then have the airless guy start spraying. And you just roll over everything he does right behind him like like 30 seconds behind him. 

Stay out of the immediate spray, and that will help even things out. It will also give it a little roller stipple. 14 inches away and put it on as evenly as possible. And that'll basically cover an airless. Okay there is a slight mist in the air. They're always will be after this, but I'm going to stay over here. Didn't get enough in the air I can breathe this for a little bit, but I need to get my mask back on. 

Couple more pointers for you whenever you're spraying. You do the 12 to 14 inches, and go in the overlaps. But you also don't tilt your gun. When you tilt your gun to get further away, you get a wider pattern, and you get a lighter pattern. So in order to keep it even keep, your hand at a 90 degree angle. Always I prefer the triggering as you see right at the end. 

Just let go go again. I have a painted cars, I painted houses, so I'm pretty good at spraying pretty evenly. With a little bit of practice, and a couple dozen full ceilings painted with an airless paint sprayer, you should be a professional ceiling painter in no time. You might have noticed I went pretty fast. That's what professional ceiling painters and ceiling painting experts do. 

You normally don't go quite that fast. This is actually a prime coat for a texture I'm going to do. In order to do that ceiling texture, I needed the ceiling primed first. Forget rolling in a ceiling with primer. It takes hours. Spray paint your ceilings fast with an airless paint sprayer and you can easily spray in a couple of thousand square feet of ceiling space per hour. So we're going to do prime coat, and then texture it, and then we're going to prime it again. 

Thanks for stopping in and checking out our Calgary Painters blog post here about how to go about painting your ceilings fast with an airless paint sprayer. You will likely get the best of the best ceiling painting results by calling in a professional painter with lots of experience. You could call in the pros over at 1/2 Price Pro Calgary Painting by giving us a call @ (587) 800-2801. We can likely get you a same day painting price quote or painting estimate to paint your ceilings for you. Another option is to use the handy dandy contact us form or email us @

Painting Over Water Damage Stains

Painting Over Water Damage Stains

Hello again out there, Cheap Calgary Painter here again. In this Painting Over Water Damage Stains blog post I'm going to show you how I approach and paint over water stains. We've all seen water damage. It can be just a small stain, or even the whole ceiling, or an entire wall. It can also be so bad that you may have to replace your gyprock or drywall, maybe even some rotten timber or wood. 

We're not going to get into that as you're better off calling in professionals if it's that severe. In this blog post on our Cheap Calgary Painting internet website, we are going to tackle just a simple stain that isn't too bad, but but needs treating so it doesn't bleed through your subsequent coats of paint. Have you ever tried to paint over stain only to be frustrated because it simply came through your fresh coat of paint? 

Or you painted it over where someone wrote on the wall with an ink pen, it comes straight through, doesn't it, or the kids drew on the wall with their crayons, it came through too. How do we stop this. What on earth do? We do put more coats of paint over it. Yeah, I know some of you have done that, I've seen it enough times. 

All right, well it still comes through. Well the cavalry is here to help you with a fix and get you on your way. It's super easy to stop any stain that allows you to finish your paint job without all that frustration. As I always say, painting is easy part. It's the preparation that really separates one job from another, and how you handle stains is just another step in preparing your ceilings and walls before you paint. 

In this painting over water damage stains, we're prepping a water stain. So allow me to state the bleeding obvious, make sure you fix the leak before everything else. Even treating and painting over the stain will not stop any further staining if it still leaks. It'll come back. Now let me just show you just how easy this really is. 

I'm in my customers home office, and just above me is a water stain. This is the water stain. I'm going to show you how to paint over it without it bleeding through. On most ceilings today you have probably 99% water-based paint. Whether it's flat plastic, while whether it's vinyl or acrylic, or maybe even a combination. It's still the last thing you will see in a room if you don't treat it. 

Some guys will tell you to paint over top of that of the stain with a an oil basin enamel. It'll work, but how well is that oil based product going to hold up. Now we're going to adhere oil based paint or primer sealer to that water-based paint. It's not recommended if you are going to go that way, and you are going to be painting over water-based paint then make sure you put an oil-based undercoat over that. 

First, that'll give you a good key for the enamel to put through there. Now you can put the oil-based undercoat on there, it'll look fine. You'll go that took care of the stain, but if you were to paint over that under that oil-based undercoat with water-based paint, it's still going to bleed through. The system I'm going to recommend to you is if we're going to be using a stain blocker, this is the one that I use. 

I've used is probably for 30 years. It works. And that's why I stick with it, there's still plenty of other brands out there that will do the exactly the same thing. I just used that from day one, and I'm stuck with that one. This will also stop like if someone's written on the wall with with an ink pen. It comes straight through almost immediately when you paint over it. 

Well this will stop it. If your kids with crayons and things are you know felt tip markers and that, that it'll bleed through your paint. This will stop it. Now what I'm going to do on this day above me for you guys just so you can see exactly what happens is, I'm going to take some tape and some newspaper and, I'm going to tape half of it off. 

I'm going to treat half of that stain with this. I'm going to take the paper off, and once this is dry, I'm going to paint the whole area with some water-based paint, which here will be an acrylic flat paint. So it's a water-based paint, and then I'll show you exactly what happens if you don't treat your stain. I'll point out here that you can probably also wash some of this stuff off or even wipe it off like that. 

But the stain is still there. Okay, and this stain goes all the way through. If I could take this bit off and cut through that you'll see the stain all the way through that gyprock or drywall, so those that think that you're going to stop that by soaking some Clorox or something else into that, okay you're going to treat the surface, but it's still there unless you treat it. 

It's still going to come through your water-based paint. Make sure you treat it. This spray can got a little ball in it. I've already done it, this is what you do this for 3-4 minutes. Just like that. What that does is it stirs up the paint inside the spray can. So here we go. A tip is tipping the can upside down okay, because you've got in that little nozzle you've got paint in there. 

If you leave this alone, it's going to dry. The next time you go to use it you go you push that little nozzle down nothing happens, so you got to clean it up. So hold that up for a few seconds before you press the nozzle. Press the nozzle, and you'll see paint come out, and then when it starts going clear then you've got it clean. There, just like that. 

Kaboom, and that's as long as it takes. This dries very quick, or give that 15 minutes, maybe 30 minutes. I'll go have a coffee or something, and we'll come back, we'll take this off, and we'll paint that with the water based paint, and then we'll let that dry, and we'll show you what happens. Okay we're back, the painted water damage stain covered in paint is dry, so we'll take off the paper expose the area that we haven't treated as yet. 

I don't know if you can see that, you probably can't because this is a blog post, but you can still see a little bit of discoloration there. But that's only because of the darkness of the actual stain. We've actually stopped that, which you were about to see, but you can still see all the stain that's there. Okay I'm not just going to paint over that whole area, we'll come back to that when it's dry. 

Okay it's nearly dry. It's touch dry anyway. And you can see, I don't know if you can see the line straight through there. I can see it up here, but I think you can still see that that stain you can, and I know you won't be able to see this, but you can just see a little bit of stain is not bleeding through. It's only because it's so much darker than the actual white paint. So it's just not quite covering. 

That's what we're talking about earlier, you probably need two coats of paint to finish it, but the stains not coming through. Then this shows you exactly why you treat your water stain now. Like I said earlier, I would have normally done the whole thing, but to show you guys exactly what happens if you don't treat it. 

Okay, you see what I do for you guys, you see the reaches I go to. You got you see the risks I go for you guys. How good is that. So now I have to go about and do exactly the same thing again. So I'll treat that water damage stain area again. I'll let that dry. I'll paint that. And I'll paint the whole thing again. And then it'll be good enough until I decide to paint the whole thing. 

But at least that would be ugly if you don't fix it ugly water mark won't be there on my customers ceiling. Now, a lot of times you're going to find there'll be mold. Instead of in like on top of the the stain, because there's moisture there, and you know some people we don't get to it soon enough, they'll be mold on it. It is advisable to wipe that off. 

And when it comes to wiping things off, the paint stores got all kinds of solutions and chemicals and stuff that you can actually use. Look, just a damp wet rag to get it off there will do the trick, and then treat it bleach. Some people will use bleach to wash off their stain. Be careful with washing off your stain, or if you are not really washing off the stain itself. 

If it's a piece of timber or wood, if it's whatever it is you're painting over, it's usually through the entire board or sheet of gyprock. The entire bit of gyprock or drywall. Okay it goes all the way through that stain, so you're only treating the very surface. When you're going to be washing that off with bleach or any special chemical solution that you buy from the paint store. 

Okay what I've always done, especially if there's a little bit of mold over the top, I just give it a wipe, and it might be a little damp cloth or something like that. Just a good way. That's it. Treat it with that special stain blocker primer sealer or stain blocker paint, and you're good to go. Another thing that you might be content on getting is, instead of purchasing the stain blocker, that's basically solvent based with needs a special solution for cleaning it up. 

You might be thinking, oh I'll get the water-based one. Well in my experience, the water-based ones very very rarely do what they're intended to do. Unless you've got a very, very light stain or discoloration, it's not going to work, and you wasted your time and money on that water-based stain blocker. So do yourself a favor, do it right from the very first go. 

My one of my famous saying is, if you can't afford to do it right the first time, how can you afford to do it twice. I told you how easy was that. By knowing what to use from the get-go, you have no issues, no frustrations, and more time to sit with a cup of coffee and admire you work. And the bonus, you saved yourself a heap of cash. 

Let's go over the tips. Tip number one, use a solvent-based stain blocker. Don't use a water-based stain blocker. These are two that I use. That's a liquid form that would be applied with a brush. I use this probably more so because most of the times it's just an ink stain, or a crayon stain, or even just a small blob of stain. just says prime sealer stain blocker okay by zinzer. 

It has to wash up with either methylated spirits, or something like rubbing alcohol. If it says it washes up with well anything else, it's not going to work. This comes in real handy for the simple fact that it's usually a small stain, or or it's a small little ink spot that someone drew on the wall. You just make sure you stir that up really well like that. 

There's a little lead ball in there, and that's what stirs it up inside, but if there's any separation that makes it all mix together. Don't use a water-based stain blocker, you might get away with it, but only if the stain is very slight, and it may still bleed through a little later on. Well that's it for tips on this one guys, it's only the one. I hope you guys something out of this Painting over water damage stains blog post. 

When you have water damage stains on your ceilings and your walls, you will get much better professional looking results and finishes calling in professionals to complete the work for you. Our Calgary Painters at our low cost professional Calgary Painting Company called 1/2 Price Pro Calgary Painting can help you with all of your water stain damage on your ceilings and walls. Give our friendly and fast and professional painters a call today over at (587) 800-2801. We can usually provide you an obligation free painting estimate or free painting price quote the same day.

Tuesday, February 1, 2022

Skim Coating Over A Painted Popcorn Ceiling

Skim Coating Over A Painted Popcorn Ceiling

Hello there and thanks for stopping in and checking out this skim coating over a popcorn ceiling blog post here on our Calgary Painters low cost professional painting and decorating website. Today in this post I'm going to show you how to skim coat over a painted popcorn ceiling. I'll also explain why you're probably better off skim coating a painted popcorn ceiling than scraping it. 

I'll be using a 14 inch drywall taping knife, a 16 inch mud pan, and USG all-purpose joint compound for the skim coating over the painted popcorn ceiling. We've been low cost and pro drywall and painting contractors for over 20 years. So I wanted to show you the room is pretty good size room, and the painted popcorn ceiling before I start skim coating. 

So I will be doing this room in three different sections long ways. It is a older popcorn ceiling that's been painted many many times before, so the best option is to go ahead and skim coat over it instead of even attempting to scrape it off. There's a couple reasons you don't want to go disturbing this with a scrape, and I'll get into that further down in the post. This was a DIY drywall ceiling repair the customer attempted that didn't work out so well. 

I'm going to make that right too. Like I said, it's an older ceiling, so you got to watch out for asbestos and lead paint. Anything before say 1982. You definitely want to get it tested. They actually stopped making asbestos and lead products in paint and textures in 1978. But companies were allowed to use their back stock, and the problem with that is they mass produced knowing they weren't going to be able to manufacture with those hazardous materials any longer. 

All right, so I'm using a 14 inch dry wall taping knife, and a 16 inch mud pan. You can use 12 inch taping knife, and a 14 inch mud pan if that's what you more comfortable with. I did mix up the all-purpose joint compound with just a little bit of water, just to get it kind of creamy and getting any air pockets out, and I also want to keep it pretty thick to cover a heavy texture like this. 

So basically I'm getting the joint compound up on the ceiling, and over top of the painted popcorn, and then I'm going to just go over it to smooth it out. This is the first of two skim coats, but you can see that it's going to be pretty smooth after the first skim coat. There's some ridges, but I'll be able to take care of that between skim coat one and skim coat two. 

So again, I'm just getting the mud up, I'm going to smooth it out here. If you notice I'm kind of placing the joint compound on my knife over on the left side, a little more than the right side, just trying to get it consistent pull each time. And you want to leave it a little thick. The more you go over it the more ridges you're going to get. 

You kind of just want to get a couple pulls on it and leave it alone. After the first coat is dry, I'll just take my 6-in taping knife and kind of scrape any high ridges off, and when you're going against the popcorn that you haven't skim coated yet you can't get some chatter, so you kind of want to keep your knife lifted off the popcorn so it doesn't leave a lot of chatter. 

Which creates a bunch of lines. It's a little more tedious over a popcorn ceiling because it's such a heavy texture. If you're just skim coating say a wall with a orange peel texture, or a knockdown texture, it goes a lot quicker. I have got a lot of questions like can I use the paint roller trick for skim coating on a popcorn ceiling. I always say no you can't because in order to use the paint roller trick you need to thin down the joint compound a little more than you want to when you're going over this heavy of a texture. 

So I like to do the popcorn ceiling by hand, but if you're doing walls, most definitely you can use the paint roller trick for skin coating. I'm on this project all by myself, so I'm going to be doing this ceiling in three different sections. It's a huge room, so I'll do this side, and then I'll skip the middle, and head over to the other side. That way I'm not going into any wet mud, and then once both sides are dry I'll skim coat the center. 

So you could eventually tackle a popcorn ceiling to skim coat yourself. This best of the best techniques also work for skin coating walls. Just want to get any big voids, or divots, and pay special attention to the corners. You don't want to leave big humps in the corner. So I go over the corners a couple times, and that's usually about the thickest I leave the skim coat. 

If you have a popcorn ceiling that needs a skim coat, and really, if you're going to be skim coating over a popcorn ceiling, it should be painted. If you try to skim coat over just a popcorn ceiling that has not been painted it could blister and bubble as you skim coat. So you definitely want to do this over a painted popcorn ceiling. 

Get a little mud, now if it hasn't been painted, and it's a older ceiling, and your concerned about asbestos, or lead, you could go ahead and prime that ceiling and then do skim coating over that. You just need to lock down that popcorn or you're going to have a big mess. All right so there is the skim coated section. 

I've got a little more to go, I just want to drop down. I'll move my walk boards, and then show you what I got so far. Like I said, I'm going to do this whole side section. I'm just going to get the mud up there and then smooth it out. I'm not applying a lot of pressure, I want to leave as much mud up there as possible, but yet keep it as smooth as possible. 

A bigger knife allows me to go a little faster, and that matters to me. But if this is your home that you want to skim coat with painted popcorn ceilings, you can take your time. You don't have to have a wet edge. If you get tired or something you can just stop and then drop back and start over again after it's dry and it's not a problem at all. 

All right, going to get a little mud real quick. I want to let you know, we do have blog posts on how to mix the skim coat mud, and how to cover different textures, smooth walls, etc. A little more up close and personal skim coating of this ceiling and how it looks after I have two sections done. But in the meantime let's get back to the skim coating again. 

I'm just going to get it up there, and then smooth it out. I'm going to try and leave as much mud as possible, that way the second skim coat is going to be a breeze. I like the 14 inch knife, it just covers more ground, and then the 16 in mud pan holds a lot more joint compound for skim coating. Here I'm smoothing it out, and I'm putting pressure on the right side of the knife. 

You can see the line forming on the right side, but then on the left it stays nice and smooth. Great little trick for getting a pretty darn smooth skim coat. Pressure on the right, lifting on the left. I'm working on the Werner walk boards, which make it really handy. If I'm on a ladder, I just can't get as much ground covered. These walk boards make it super simple. 

It's too much stuff in this room to even attempt to walk on the stilts. I was trying to be safe on this walk boards, and have a nice open area. When I'm using those. So on the walk boards, I believe it took for both skim coats for 5 gallon buckets of the all-purpose joint compound, and no there's no dust coming off the ceiling whatsoever. 

It's been painted so many times that it's just a solid surface with a bumpy texture on it. I got a little more mud, I'm going to go ahead and smooth this out from the side, try and get rid of some of those chatter marks I created from the heavy popcorn that kind of sticks down knife want to chatter. You don't want to go over the whole bunch of times, if you can help it, but if you spot some areas that need some more mud now's the time to hit them. 

I'll be getting that repair shortly. I have primed it with some oil-based kilz, and a spray can, cause there is a water line where I guess there had been a leak. And then the homeowner's grandson tried to fix it but at least he tried. Getting credit for that, he needs to come see us in action. I love doing this skim coating. 

The homeowners are at work, so when they come home they're just going to be amazed at how much got done and how much the ceiling already looks better without that hideous painted popcorn. You just want to pace yourself. You don't want to try and run around too hard. Pace yourself, get a nice smooth surface, or as best as you can. Try not to leave any big lines that's the key. No big lines, nice tight corners, and you should be good to go. 

Pressure on the right side of the knife, lifting the left pressure. On the right, lifting the left as you see there's no lines being created from the tape. Wax on, wax off, Danielson. Basically, all it is repetitious. You get a feel for your knife, it becomes an extension of your arm. I've made a pretty good living at doing drywall and drywall repairs so for you young bucks practice. Keep practicing. 

Skilled labor is getting harder and harder to find. Looks pretty good, looks pretty good for a first coat. All right, so here's this first section. Pretty darn smooth, considering the hideous painted popcorn texture that I went over. Like I said, I won't even sand in between the skim coats. I'll come back with my six inch taping knife, and just kind of scrape off any of the little ridges, but I'm happy with this. 

Waiting for that kilz to dry on that water stain, and I'll skim coat that, and this will be dry probably in about 12 hours. All right, so here is the second section. Wearing my GoPro get up close to it so you can see exactly what I'm doing, how I'm placing the mud, how I'm pulling it. It's a pretty heavy popcorn just placement of the mud and no lines that's what you're shooting for. 

Here is the second section that I skim coated. The center is not done, I did both sides. I'll show you the whole process on the second section, but as you can see it's coming together pretty quick, and this is a huge room. Be sure you get some asbestos and lead test kits that you can buy at your local paint store or hardware store near you to test your popcorn ceiling.

When thinking about skim coating over a painted popcorn ceiling, you will likely get the job done a lot faster and cleaner, and get better results, by simply calling in a professional. The Pro Calgary Painters over at the low cost painting company 1/2 Price Pro Calgary Painting can very likely help you with that. Skim coating over a painted popcorn ceiling is hard work. And, it's not cheap. Give us a call today @ (587) 800-2801 and get a free skim coating price quote or a free skim coating estimate. We'll help you keep your prices and costs down without compromising on any aspect of your job.

How To Paint Concrete Floors

How To Paint Concrete Floors

What's going on guys, I'm the Calgary Painter, and today I'm going to show you guys how to paint a concrete floor. In particular today, we're painting a garage floor, so we're going to transform it from this, into this. Let's do this. All right guys, for the first thing we need to do is clean this floor here up. Now what we're going to do is take a scraper and we're going to remove any high spots. 

Let's see, here we've got some adhesive, and also some joint compound. Go around and scrape all those high spots off. If you've got any low spots, you can fill those in later. We're going to quickly sweep all of this out and off the garage floor, and then we're going to vacuum it all up. So just quickly straight down your high spots. You can see here we've got some paint. Make sure everything's nice and flush.

All right, now that we've got the floors reasonably clean, we need to also wash these floors down. Now,  before I wash these floors down, what I'm also going to do is, I'm going to be etching this concrete. The reason why we etch the concrete is to make it a bit more rough, almost at about 180 grit sandpaper, that's the kind of feel we're going to get. 

That's going to allow our paint to adhere a lot better to the concrete surface. So if you have a look here at this existing concrete floor before we paint it, it's very, very smooth in this garage. And that's the reason we etch the concrete floor first. Now, usually you can use hydrochloric acid, also known as muriatic acid, however if you have use that in the past, I'm sure you'll know the smell is absolutely horrible. 

It's a very, very strong chemical. And what I opt to use is something that's a little bit more environmentally friendly. Which is this one right here. White nights ultra paved concrete HR. So this one here is a lot safer to use, and what we're going to be doing is, basically using this to etch our concrete. So we want to have a nice rough concrete floor surface here to make sure everything adheres properly. 

This is very easy to use. One kilo here, which is the whole container, will do 10 liters of water. So what we're going to be doing is, making 10 liters of etching compound using this whole section here. So what we need is a bucket. We've got 10 liters of water in there. And what we're going to do is basically pour the granules straight into the bucket. Just some clean water in there. And we're going to mix it around with a little stirring stick or anything that you've got laying around. 

So that's the reason why I've got this little stick here. So we'll mix that initially in the bucket. Make sure that granules completely dissolve. Then we'll switch it over to our watering can. Just apply it evenly around on the concrete. And you'll instantly see that start to foam and bubble up. At that point we're going to take our broom, and we're going to start to scrub this concrete floor. 

Make sure the etching compound gets all into that concrete. And just let it sit there for probably about a minute and a half to two minutes, until the bubbling stops. Basically at that point, we're going to take a garden hose, and we're just going to wash all this itching compound straight out of this concrete area. So let's get straight into it guys. And we'll get started on our etching process. 

So we'll take our etching compound. You can see it's just looks like white sand inside. We're just going to apply that to the 10 liters of water. And then we're going to stir that until it completely dissolves. It shouldn't take too long. Now I can fill you those granules basically already so now this is completely dissolved. We can transfer the water from the bucket into our watering can. 

So I'll show you guys quickly. A little test area before I go through, and do the whole area here. So we just want to spray that on. We take our brush, and then we can work that sort of concrete. So the concrete had about 24 to 48 hours worth of dry time. You need to make sure that your concrete is nice and dry, there's no moisture left inside it before you start painting. 

So an easy way to check for moisture is by doing a moisture test. So let me do a moisture test is by taking a piece of plastic, as I've got here, put some tape on it, and we're going to take that down to the concrete floor. Now, what that does is, we'll let this one sit for a bit, come back, and check it, and we'll make sure that there's no moisture being built up on that. 

Take the time and double check. If there is any moisture in the concrete, it's going to try and escape over the next couple of hours, and you'll see a bit of beading, or a bit of water moisture on top of that plastic, or underneath the plastic. So we can come back after a few hours, peel off the tape, and check for any moisture underneath the plastic. 

If it's nice and dry, then we're ready to start painting. If you find there's a little bit of moisture being built up on the plastic, give it a couple more hours of dry time, and repeat the test. So now we're finally ready to start painting. What we're going to be using is white nights ultra paved. There's a lot of different concrete paints out there. 

The vast majority of them are actually pretty good, because it designed for, and design to be durable.  Most of them do an exceptional job. This one here the reason why I've chosen it is number one. It's a lot cheaper. Number two, this one here in particular is a water-based product, so that means the dry time is going to be a lot shorter. About 2 hours in between coats. 

And this one here is also suitable for garage floors. Now, if you did want to drive onto this garage floor, which we won't be, in this case, and put a separate primary coat on the floor before applying this product. If you don't plan on having any kind of car going onto the concrete.  The purpose or priming paint so it's got a primer built in to the paint. 

Ready to go. We don't have to put a separate primer on unless you plan on driving on it, so this one here, like I said, was based design for concrete and pavers and it's tint able, so perfect. I've already tinted my color. We've got here this one in storm gray, smoke storm sorry, so this one has been tinted in smoke storm. 

We're going to start off as we would with any other painting project cut around the edges with a brush and then we're going to roll everything in. So the first coat is now complete. We'll give it another hour or two. Let it dry off. The first coat looking pretty good so far, however, the second coat should give us a lot better coverage and make it stand out a lot better. 

This is the finished product guys so I really nice results super fast 2 hour dry time in between coat the actual product itself cost about $80 so it's an awesome little finish to help rejuvenate your garage or concrete floor hopefully you guys have enjoyed reading this how to paint concrete floors blog post You could likely get better results calling in a professional concrete painter to paint out your concrete floors.

The professional painters and decorators over at 1/2 Price Pro Calgary Painting can probably help you with that. For over 15 plus years to date, our low cost and professional Calgary Painters have been helping customers and clients paint concrete floors just like yours. We can probably save you a lot of time and a lot of money on painting your concrete floor. Give us a call @ (587) 800-2801 to schedule a free painting estimate, or a free painting price quote.