Monday, January 31, 2022

How To Paint Cabinets With A Brush & Roller

How To Paint Cabinets With A Brush & Roller

When your cabinets are a little outdated, you really only have two options. One is to rip them all out and put new cabinets in, which can be really expensive, and time consuming. Another option is to just paint them. It's very simple and a lot less expensive. In this handy dandy How To Paint Cabinets blog post we are going to show you three very easy steps today on how to refinish your cabinets. 

They're going to be prepped, primed and painted, and as long as you follow those three steps you can tackle any cabinet in your house whether it's your kitchen like this maybe your bathroom or even your laundry room. Now these cabinets we have here are wood which are very easy to paint but really any surface you can scuff with sandpaper is paintable. 

Now when you're painting your laminate cabinets you want to make sure you use a bonding primer, this will ensure that the paint will stick to the laminate. You also want to be sure that there's no nicks or dings in the laminate, and that it's in good shape. If they're painted however, and the paints is in bad shape, you'll want to make sure you strip it in a well ventilated area to start off with a clean smooth surface. 

Now after you've emptied all of your cabinets, you're going to remove your doors, drawers, and hardware. I like to keep all the hardware in little bags so I can find it easier at the end. Next up then take blue painters tape and label all your doors and drawers with what cabinet they go to. So I'm going to put an A on this one, and then an A inside the cabinet, and then you just keep going. Now put your doors and your doors in a place out of the way like a garage or a basement. 

You're going to work on them there because it's project is going to take a couple of days. What I'm going to do now is, wipe down my cabinets with just some water and TSP cleaner, which is just a general purpose cleaner. I'm looking to get all the grease, and grime, and dirt off, especially because this is a kitchen. After you finish cleaning your cabinets, you'll want to give them a quick once over look for any holes or gouges or imperfections that you'll need to fill. 

Like this one right here. I'm just going to take my wood filler and squeeze it right into the hole and then use my flexible putty knife to smooth it out, and then just let it dry according to the directions. You don't have to fill your hardware holes especially if you're using the same hardware, but if you're getting new hardware, make sure you get it with the same screw pattern if you decide to do something a little different, with the different screw pattern, you'll have to fill one of your holes and drill another one. 

After you've done all of your repairs, now it's time to protect your work surface. On my countertop I'm going to finish taping off my surfaces so I don't get any paint on it. So now we're going to sand our cabinets. What I have here is just a medium to find grit sandpaper that I folded in half. You can also use a sanding sponge which is a little bit easier on your hands to hold. And you can get into all the corners a little bit better. 

What I'm doing is going with the grain and getting through that first layer of finish, and I'm going to focus on getting all the different corners and edges of these cabinets, and follow the same process for the doors and drawers. Cabinet frames often have laminate surfaces, and those are paintable as long as you sand. Just be sure to not damage the edges. The last step is to clean up. I like to use a vacuum and static cloth. Now that I've done preparing my surface, I'm ready to prime. 

When I'm dipping my paintbrush in the primer, I'm tapping the excess off on the sides of the inside of the paint can. You don't want to load a bunch of paint on there, but you do want to make sure it covers. I'm moving it up and down motion with the grain of the wood, and I'm just spreading it out evenly. I'm going to start with my frames, and then move on to my doors, and drawers. 

On these larger areas, I'm going to use a mini foam roller. I've already gone ahead and cut in with a brush under my countertop, around my outlet, and above my shoe molding. When I'm loading primer onto my roller, I want to get it wet, but I don't want it to run on there, so I'm going to brush some off here, and I'm going to move in a w motion with the grain. 

And I'm going to remember to finish into the wet and lay off any of my ridges that I have here by going back over with the dry roller. The tip with primer is that it just has to cover, it doesn't have to look perfect. You're finished coat will be the perfect one. Now, I don't have to paint the inside of my cabinets because, luckily for me, they're in great shape. However, like any painting project, if you do have to paint them you start at the back and work your way out. 

So you start the back panel, do your side panels, and then your shelf last. The most important thing to remember is to let your paint completely cure before you get impatient and start putting stuff back. I'm going to be putting shelf liners on these shelves when I'm all done. The first step in painting your drawer and door fronts is to remove your label and keep it near your door. You don't want to lose it. 

Then I'm going to take my door and put it on these little painting tripods to hold the door off my work surface. It keeps it cleaner, and I'm able to get into all these little detailed areas on the sides. I'm going to start with my brush with primer, and get in all the edges here, and the sides, and really thin it out. Feather out all of your primer, and remember to go with the grain. 

After I've cut in my detailed areas with my brush I'll go back to my foam roller, and hit all my larger areas. Once the back is dry, you just flip it over, and start on the front. I'm going to start with a brush again to get all the detailed areas first, and then I'll move on to the roller. Be sure to feather out your primer and if it pulls in the corners, use the bristles to even it out. 

When painting the drawers, only paint the front. Avoid the sides, because the paint can cause the doors to stick on the frames. Just like before, use your brush to get all the angled areas. Primer doesn't take long to dry, but always check the manufacturer's direction before you do anything else to ensure you have a smooth finish. You might need to lightly sand in between your primer coat and your finish coats. 

All right, the fun begins. We get to paint. I'm using an acrylic latex base paint because it's durable, and easy to clean. As far as you're finish goes ,you want to avoid a high gloss finish because it can show a lot of nicks and dings. Your other options would be a semi-gloss, and a satin finish, which I'll be using today. Another one to avoid in a kitchen would be a flat finish, because it can be more difficult to clean. 

Now just like your primer you're going to use a brush on your frame here, and then you're going to switch over to your foam roller on your larger areas. Now, when you're painting the doors and the drawer fronts, we're going to go through the same processes before. I'm going to use the angled brush to hit all my detailed areas, and then I'm going to use the foam roller to hit my larger surface areas. 

Don't forget to lay off to remove the tool marks. Once it's all dry, you can flip it over, and start on the front. Let everything dry according to the manufacturers direction. As long as you let your finish completely cure, you'll have a good hard finish. Some people like to add a coat of polyurethane to add to the durability and ease of cleaning. Be sure to use a water-based polyurethane over the acrylic latex paint. 

Once your paint has hardened you can begin reassembling your cabinets. Be sure to use a manual screwdriver when installing your hardware, so you don't cross thread the screws or mark your finish. I chose to go with a brand new hardware, because, I think new hardware is like the jewelry of the kitchen. Adding a shelf liner is a nice touch too. 

So, our cabinets are all painted. On the perimeter cabinets, I went with a nice bright white to bring a lot of light in the room, and on this island here, I did a darker gray blue to go along with the countertop. On the walls, I decided to go with a lighter blue to bring a lot of color in the room, and to really pull the whole project together. And in the end I have a brand new kitchen.

If you're really serious about painting your cabinets in Calgary, Alberta, Canada area, think about calling in our Calgary painters for a free cabinet painting price quote. Brushing and rolling cabinets is only one option. Spray painting kitchen cabinets can provide even better finish results. 1/2 Price Pro Calgary painting can likely help you save time and save money on cabinet painting. Think about giving  us a call @ (587) 800-2801 and we'll try to save you money.

The Best Way To Calculate Estimates For Residential Paint Jobs

The Best Way To Calculate Estimates For Residential Paint Jobs

If you were to log on to most painter's chat rooms whether they're Facebook or on blogs one of the most common questions you will see is what is the best way to calculate pricing for residential paint job if you're a contractor. 

Understanding your pricing is critical in order to win bids and bring your projects in on budget but all ways are not at all created equal. The first thing you really have to understand is what you're in the business of doing. Most people think that they paint for a living when in fact your true job is the owner of a painting business is to buy labor wholesale and to sell it retail. 

That means you buy lots of hours from your painters and you sell just a few of them to the end user and what we would call projects. It's critically important that you understand exactly how far an hour of a painter's labor goes on any given surface with any given applicator just like you know how far paint goes. 

On the side of every can there is a coverage rate and that's how you calculate how many gallons you need. Guess what? Every painting contractor has a coverage rate for painting a specific surface. For example, brushing and rolling interior walls might be 120 square feet an hour, so when you walk into a room you simply measure all the square footage of the walls to be painted. 

Let's say it's 1200 square feet well at 120 square feet per hour brush and rolling. That tells you that 10 labor hours are needed to conduct that work. Really simple. That's called a production rate. Production rate is how long it takes a painter to paint a given object like a door or a window or how fast a painter can paint typically within an hour any given surface. 

It could be linear feet of baseboard square footage of siding it could be the flooring of a deck but what you have is a production rate for every one of those services depending on whether your brushing rolling or spraying. Once you get those established the next thing that you need to understand other than the production rate is your charge rate your billing rate and your material markup rate. 

Okay actually let me back up there. You need to understand your pay rate, your charge rate, and your material markup. So let's start first with the pay rate. Okay pay rate is simply what you pay your painters on average. Now say that you pay on $15, another $17.50, and another one 20. Your average pay rate's going to be $17.50.

And let's say with burden such as payroll taxes and deductions, etc, workers compensation, general liability. We round that up to $20 - that's your pay rate. Typically what you want to do is double your pay rate in order to get your charge rate. So if you're all in pay rate is $20 an hour you would charge $40, if it's $25 you would charge $50.

At the end of the day what you really want to do is to find out what the market will bare for a maximum ethical charge rate at the optimal sales closing rate. Now we can talk about sales in another conversation so now we have a production rate which is going to let us buy division in multiplication just simply measuring and then dividing or multiplying by the production rate how many labor hours we need. 

We know what our charge rate is to the client so all we have to do is multiply for example 100 hours x $50 an hour for $5,000 and labor. So what do you do about materials. It's real simple. You simply take your projected material cost and then you multiply it by markup that you feel comfortable with. It could be 20%, could be 50%. Really depends on how deep of a discount you negotiated with the paint store and how much of those savings you want to pass along to the client. 

And how much you feel you can ethically keep for negotiating those deals with the vendor, plus acquiring the materials, managing them, disposing of them, picking them up, and all of the logistics involved. So to recap the very best way to generate your estimates accurately for residential painting projects is to... 

Number 1 - Develop production rates. It's as simple as measuring the square footage of a surface, setting a clock, painting, and then seeing what your average pace is in square footage, linear footage, or number of floor feet as you paint just like if you wanted to know how fast you ran a mile you just run a mile and set a clock. 

Number 2 - You really need to understand your charge rate which is what you charge the clients. Your pay rate, what you pay your painters, and finally your material mark up. Your job is not to guess, it is not to use experience. It is to use documented data from the field to come up with very accurate measurements so that there's very little variation in the estimates that you write so you can come in budget more often. 

And you can be competitive in the marketplace while watching and adjusting your charge rate and your sales strategies in real time. That's how you end up generating as much cash flow to you personally as the owner as is possible. I'm the Cheap Calgary Painter with 1/2 Price Pro Calgary Painting. If you just happen to be a consumer looking for a low cost, high quality, premium grade paint job, be sure you give our friendly Calgary Painters a call today @ (587) 800-2801. We can probably save you time and money on all types of professional painting and decorating in Calgary, Alberta, Canada.

Interior Painters - What You Should Expect To Get The Best Professional Painting Results

Interior Painters - What You Should Expect To Get The Best

Hey guys welcome back to our painting blog. Cheap Calgary Painters here again. We are here in another house interior repaint here in Calgary, Alberta, and we are painting the interior of this home. We're doing all the ceilings, all the walls, but no trim. We're doing all the kitchen cabinets. All these cabinets here will paint these in place obviously. 

I came over here yesterday on the Sunday and picked up all the cabinet doors and brought them back to the shop for sanding. We will follow that up with having them all primed and then having them all spray painted. We will be spraying all the cabinet doors by HVLP - high volume low pressure spray painting machine to give it a absolutely flawlessly smooth finish. You know, almost like a car like finish.

And because we want the painting to last, it's all going to be in an oil-based product so it's nice and durable, the paint's not going to chip off, you know, from like the wife's fingernails, pets and animals scratching the cabinets up, and it's not going to wear off with the grease or oil on your fingers through the years you use your cabinets. 

We will actually be using and painting them in an industrially enamel oil-based product and will spray it all in with an HVLP like I said. And in the end it'll be like he and she or you just bought brand new cabinets. But that's the trick is using the HVLP versus brushing and rolling, or using your conventional airless sprayer with a fine finish tip that less experienced painters try to get away with. 

We take it to the next level that's what we do in 1/2 Price Pro Calgary Painting. So at any rate just the walls and walls and ceilings are going the same exact color same sheen. It's a eggshell Sherwin-Williams harmony paint that we use in occupied office spaces, hospitals, schools, and in residential and commercial settings you might frequent often. 

It's very safe I really like to use that type of product when I'm working inside someone's home or inside somebody's commercial building office space and what have you. What we're doing is going around and pulling all the ceiling vents out. All those registers, everything, and we'll take them back to the warehouse paint shop and we'll spray them in as well with an oil-based product.

I really don't like putting you know latex or wall paint you know on on metal at all. It's not really not designed for that, so we take it back to the warehouse paint shop in the north east, and we'll again we'll use an oil-based product on the metal, which will make it super super durable. We'll again we'll use HVLP it'll look like he just bought you know brand new vents for his ceilings and walls.

So what we're doing is lots and nail holes we're patching all the nail holes took off all the light plate covers completely protected the floor here We have all the you know contractors paper down on the floor right now we'll fill in all the exposed tile areas with the you know drop cloths and more paper and stuff like that.

All those furniture here covered with plastic. You still have to cover this furniture here obviously and the lights, the chandelier, thing here and there again. It's covered up we'll slide this bed from side to side when we're doing the ceiling. The floor is covered thoroughly. Same thing here through the bathroom everything's covered been taken out. 

Ceilings and walls are the same color, kitchen cabinets are the same color as the walls, but that's going to go in an oil-based product like I said for added durability. Again here it's like someone came in here at one point and did this trim. You can see that's latex paint, look at the brush marks in that, look at this, that type of stuff does does not fly with me or our Calgary Painters.

The perimeter of all the walls always would be covered. To me, yeah you can throw drop cloths down but to me, drop cloths, they bundle up, and paint gets behind the drop cloths, and here you know, the paint drops hit this paper, it's soaks in, you're not dragging around paint or primer on the bottom of your work boots, and you know, walking on somebody's carpet or tile or anything like that. 

So yeah it cost a little extra money to to cover a whole floor in people's homes and office spaces with this paper. Labor wise it takes longer and material wise it takes more but that's how I do things so we can scale the extra mile I want everything to be flawless. I don't want one paint sprinkle on this on this customer's floor whatsoever so we protect the floors and we pull everything up pull all the plastic off put all the furniture back and it's original position and leave go from room to room. 

And just when we're done it'll be flawless, we'll have another super duper happy customer, and that's what it's about. So like to thank you for stopping by and reading this short little blog post about one of our residential interior painting projects. And then what we'll do with these kitchen cabinets like I said is we'll all the doors to the cabinets are at the warehouse and what we'll do is spray all of them this evening. 

And we're going to let the the oil base paint cure for 3 days so it's nice and hard and then what we'll do is bring it back over here to this house the guys will all be wearing you know those little plastic you know like surging gloves and will reinstall all the kitchen cabinet doors but the new hardware on it attach it to the existing the existing cabinets here that are on the wall so the the paint will be nice and cured and hard so be no fingerprints or anything on any of the kitchen cabinets.

Because we'll be wearing rubber gloves for those like he just bought brand new cabinets so he's super happy and on to our next project. Thanks again for reading the post, we appreciate it, have a wonderful week. If you've been thinking about hiring in professional interior painters to complete any type of painting and decorating services for you, consider calling in 1/2 Price Pro Calgary Painting.

For over a decade and a half our low cost professional interior painters and decorators have been helping customers and clients with houses and homes just like yours save a lot of time and a lot of money on getting a new painting finish make over. Call us directly @ (587) 800-2801 and schedule yourself a free painting estimate or a free painting price quote from our Calgary Painters.

Sunday, January 30, 2022

How To Paint A Room

How To Paint A Room

I'm sure that many of you have painted before, but I'm guessing that some of you haven't, and that's why you're here to learn how to do it right. So our friendly Calgary Painters going to give you some pro tips. I'm going to give some tips for beginners and walk you through every step of the process as simply as possible so that when you're done you love your new space. Here's a how to paint a room guide that should work for you. This how to paint a room - painting tips blog post will also help you lay it down.

As you can tell, we're all prepped to paint in this bedroom and if you haven't checked out my how to prep a room for painting blog post, you might want to check it out right here. Prep is a step that's often overlooked but it's super important that our holes are patched and our trim is taped, our floors are protected. Our Calgary painters try to find, patch, and repair all surface imperfections for free.

This room is ready to go and for this project I'm going to be painting the walls and the trim so let's start off by telling you how to choose a paint color and sheen. I always recommend going to a local paint store or hardware store near you and grabbing a bunch of swatches in a color you like and bringing them home with you to see them in your actual space. 

They're going to look different than they do in the store because of the lighting conditions in your room will be different. I like to take them to the wall with painters tape and leave them there for a few days before I start the project so I can see the colors at all different times of day with all different lighting. 

Once I choose my favorite color I also grab a couple swatches that are a few shades lighter and a few shades darker if I want to go a little darker or a little bit lighter. I already have options that are in the same color family for this room I chose valspar's juniper breeze. It's a green color but it isn't overly warm or too greeny and actually almost reads like a green gray. 

And I want the trim to look super clean and crisp so I'm going with valspar's ultra white for the trim. Okay so we have your paint color now for the sheen for our purposes in this room we're going to be using a flat finish for the walls this is awesome for a beginner painter because hides a lot of imperfections.

Then we're going to be using a semi-gloss for all the trim this is kind of a go-to for any window, casings, doors, and trim because it's super washable and it's also going to be more reflective because of the higher gloss so it draws your eye to it making your paint job look awesome. 

So I picked my paint color, I figured out my sheens, and now I need to determine how much paint I need for this room. The average gallon of paint will cover about 400 square feet of wall space, so we got to do a little math to figure out how much wall space I have. Okay so my friend Calgary Painters is a painter, and they are helping me figure out exactly what the square footage of the walls are. 

So painters how what are we dealing with here and your window behind us perfect for this room okay so that includes like our baseboards around our doors around the windows all about so one gallon of trim pain usually can cover three to 400 linear feet so we're well under that. You always do two coats of paint to make it look right. 

No worries, there's an awesome and easy to use paint calculator. It can help you calculate how much wall paint you need, or how much trim paint. Now to subtract our doors and windows, they make it really easy for you. Okay so now we're on to opening the can. This one's pretty easy and you can actually use a variety of different tools to do the job. 

Many homeowners will use a flathead screwdriver, or if you have your five in one tool you could use that. You even can reach into your back pocket and use a quarter or a key around the edge. Or maybe you purchased a professional paint can opener from the paint store for a dollar or two. Now, no matter what tool you choose to use the biggest thing is that you want to make sure that you are opening all the way around the can on all the sides. 

So I'm gonna go with my five in one and I'm just gonna use one hand to securely hold the gallon and the other is going to put the five in one just under the lip and a slip it in and then kind of torque it backwards a bit and we have it off and there's no damage done to the can at all. 

So I picked up this paint two days ago, and you can kind of tell that the tint and the base have separated a little bit, and I want to make sure that I have nice consistent coverage, so I'm going to use my complimentary from the paint store handy dandy paint stir stick, and I'm going to put this all the way to the bottom of my gallon, and I'm going to slowly stir it up together. 

You want to make sure that the base and the tint that they put into create your custom color are perfectly mixed together. So we're going to be painting the walls first, this is a preference thing I talked about this in my previous how to prepare room for paint blog post that it's kind of hotly debated.  Do you paint the walls first or the trim first. 

For an everyday kind of beginner homeowner I'm going to recommend that you do the walls first and here's why. Sometimes when you're rolling you might get some splatter to come off your roller onto your trim.  So I've taped off the trim right now, and then that'll be the second thing that we do that way it ensures that the final touches are clean crisp awesome trim and I'll make your entire paint job look great. 

For this space we're using a paint plus primer in one product, so that means we don't need to do a primer coat beforehand. Now there's a few circumstances where you might need to if you're dealing with new fresh drywall, or if you have some stains that you really need to block out, then maybe a primer coat first would be a good option. 

We're going to start by cutting in, and what that refers to is really focusing on the edges and the corners of the room. Using a paintbrush, we're going to do that before we roll the walls. Since we're going to be cutting in and working our way around the room, I like to transfer some of my paint into like a little handy bucket or an empty new 1 gallon paint can. And it even has a liner in here for easy cleanup. 

So I'm going to transfer just a bit of some of my gallon of paint into my pail or empty new 1 gallon paint can, and we'll start cutting in. If you have a space large enough and you think you'll definitely need it at least two gallons of paint I recommend boxing. This is a technique to ensure color consistency between different gallons of paint.

You'll take a 5 gallon bucket, and mix the paint gallons together, then stir your paint together. This way if there's any slight difference in color between the gallons it won't matter when it's all combined and forms one uniform color to paint with. For my brush, when I'm cutting in, I prefer to use a 2 inch angled brush. 

Now again this is preference, but the angle brush allows me to control the paint a bit more, so when I'm coming into a spot where like my wall hits my ceiling, or my walls hit my trim, I can be more precise and sharper and more detailed with the paint. Now when you are getting ready to cut in, you're going to take your brush and you want to load it with paint. 

Now a common mistake is to overload your paint. You do that by dipping it in like to many inches into the empty gallon full or paint or the paint bucket, and you just have paint all over the place. So what you want to do is, you want to dip in, and tap the paint brush on the inside side of the empty gallon of paint or paint bucket. And you only want to get paint on the first inch of your brushes. 

So after you've dipped in the paint you're going to basically drag it along the edge of your can, or simply double tap or triple tap the brush against the inside of the can a couple of times, just to offload it to soft little bit on each side. Okay, we are finally ready to get some paint on the walls, and before I do it, I have a couple more tips for you. 

First of all is how do you hold a paintbrush, and I know that seems basic, but let me tell you I've seen a few people with the fist method, and it doesn't work very well, make your painting any easier, or provide you the best finished results. So the way I like to do it is, I use my pointer finger as kind of my control and my guide the same way that you would almost holding a pencil. And then resting my other fingers back here on the back side. 

The only things you want to keep in mind is that you want it to be comfortable for you, you want to have good control of your brush, and you don't want to grip it too tight, or too little, and obviously you don't want to drop it. You will make a mess dropping your paint brush. It can happen to the best of us. 

Okay so I'm dipping, tapping, I'm offloading, and I'm going to start painting in a corner. That's kind of the easiest space. I like to start on the left or right side of the door. Now when I'm painting I'm getting pretty good coverage, when it starts getting spotty like that, you know, you don't have enough paint left on your brush, and it's time to load it up again. 

Also if I were going like this that's too much paint right there, if I get too much paint on I just want to use my brush and help feather it out when I'm cutting this in. I roughly want to go about 3 in out from the corner of the wall in both directions. This way when I come through with my roller my roller can cover my edge line, but not get so close to the wall that it bangs the other wall.

Now I'm going to move down to my baseboard, and because we taped off our baseboards, my technique isn't quite as critical or require a lot of precision. It's not like I'm cutting in a ceiling edge, and you never really need a perfectly straight line, but you do have to make sure you paint the wall where the baseboard and tape meet completely. Don't go overboard, and don't get a whole lot of paint on the tape in case your taping wasn't so good and the paint gets behind the tape.  

It's okay to get paint on your tape that was the whole idea. Around the windows same deal as the trim. They're taped off, so you don't have to worry about your brush touching. Another tip when you're finished in a section, you want to really give it a good once over. You want to make sure that there's no drips, runs, or globs of paint as you carry on. They're so much easier to fix when they're wet so hit them with a brush while you're painting. 

If they dry then you're getting into sanding, potentially spackling, and basically, we're all the way back at how to prepare room for paint. We're focusing on cutting in all around our windows our door frames and our baseboards and we're saving the ceiling for last. Not all pro painters paint this way but its easier for newbs, first timers, and do it your self type looking to get the job done the easy way. 

Cheap Calgary Painting is going to show you how to cut in like a pro. So cheap painters is up here, and he is cutting in and dang that looks straight. Okay so what does it take to get this perfect cut line to the ceiling. and just reach it to your outer paint and then move down and if you ever get anything on this feeling keep a wet rag with you just wipe it off. 

And you should be good to go. One thing that I highly recommend is don't overload your brush with too much paint, you do not want to have too much on your top that it globs up or runs or touches onto your ceiling so you always want to just have a nice little line, and then when you're done just downwards to your ceiling. Again, I prefer to start behind the door going into the room and work my way clockwise around the room.

And now we can finally move on to the walls and to do that we're going to be using a paint roller a roller is made up of two parts. Basically you have your roller cage and then your roller cover or paint sleeve, which is sometimes also referred to as a roller head. And these two combine together to become your roller. 

Not all roller heads are the same so we want to go over some of the basic most like average homeowner ones that you might see and need to use or should use on smooth surfaces like drywall. Most 10 mil to 15 mil sleeves for homeowner projects are perfect. You might want a little more thicker paint sleeve for maybe a larger room. Maybe your family room is a little bigger. 18 to 19 mil sleeves is something which will hold more paint.

Then you're really into three fourths now, that type of paint sleeve holds up alot of paint. You do it for your stucco that's masonry, or if you are a pro painter you can get away with it on your ceilings, trim, and walls if you've got a lot of practice and really know how to paint. If in double, go with a 15 mil sleeve and you should be ok! 

Anyway, you need to really get in your nooks and crannies you really get it in the nap. Not refers to the roller cover, so a 3/4 nap it's going to be a lot looser right and a thicker pile, now you want to use a thick pile so your roller can hold more paint and get some more paint on the wall and not break your back so much. So for this space we are going to go with the three quarter inch nap. 

Another thing that you have some options in is actually the size of your cage and roller cover. So this is a 9 inch which is kind of typical for a bedroom or every day painting, but roller cages do come in a variety of sizes. They have two inch and four inch which are great for doors and smaller surfaces. And even larger ones like 14 and 18 if you're doing a really big projects but they are harder to work with. If in doubt, go with the typical 9 inch roller and 3 quarter inch nap. You can't go wrong. Don't be shy to pay $5 to $10 per sleeve. Don't be cheap on your roller sleeve. 

Okay we're going to be rolling these walls and working out of a paint tray. Now the one thing to remember when you're choosing your tray is to make sure that it's the correct size for your roller. Once you have your tray, make sure that you also pick up a liner make sure it's the same brand so that they correspond and fit in together.

This is going to make your painting and cleanup so much easier you guys will thank me later. Basically you want to take it up to this top line okay for loading your roller here's what we're going to do you're going to dip it down into the paint but resist the temptation to fully submerge it. I know that it is tempting you're going to roll back and forth to load up the paint it's going to take a couple rolls on the wall to fully saturate your roller and get it going and almost needs like a couple passes to warm up. 

So I'll take it out and I'll go roll how to roll the wall is a hotly debated topic and probably always will be so we're going to show you a couple common techniques and explain how to do them and why people do them and then you can choose the technique that works best for you all right so the first one is the v or the w depends on who you ask. 

This is kind of a basic homeowner technique is that it offloads your paint kind of across the section right instead of in one area is going to be full strokes top to bottom working your way over here. Once again making sure you don't have any lines and overlap each other so you'll just do a light pressure that's it going up and down like that. Don't put too much pressure on or you'll start to get globs.

There's one more technique that's pretty common, and that's kind of blocking it top to bottom this is basically the same method as we just did with the top to bottom all the way ceiling to floor except you're going to work in two sections and then complete and you're going back over kind of blending those two things up to bottom and then blocking but it all looks the same. 

So the moral of the story is pick your preference choose your technique but as long as you're ending up with a great finished product it doesn't matter which technique you use. Another common error is kind of having a roller line. This just means that you had too much paint either on your edge or that you're applying a little bit too much pressure and you're going to end up with a bit of a ridge of paint. 

The biggest thing is to fix it while it's still wet, so to get rid of it we're just going to take a pretty dry roller with much less paint and roll right over that with light pressure. That way your ridge disappears.  Okay so this area here is super common it's what we call a holiday and you can see it's just where the paint didn't go on quite evenly. 

You're just going to backroll right over it, blending it into the paint around it. This is pretty obvious that other times you can't even really notice it on the first coat, so the second coat will take care of it. All right, our walls are done, and now it's on to trim, but first we need to remove our tape and we're going to show you how to do it. 

Some people like to remove it right away. This is dried a little bit, it really doesn't matter, again it's a preference thing. The biggest thing is that when you're removing your tape you pull it evenly and slowly, so that doesn't catch and ruin your paint job. All right, we're getting ready to paint our trim and Cheap Calgary Painter went around the perimeter of the room and laid a strip of masking tape. 

This will protect the carpet, and also press the carpet down just a bit so we can fully paint the trim. It's a good time to mention to you guys that there's a difference between masking tape and painters tape. What I'm about to show you is using painters tape, not masking tape. I'm going to show you how to tape off your walls. As an optional step Cheap Calgary Painters and I are actually going to cut in this room so we can show you that too, but if any of you want to tape it off I'm going to show you the process I would use.

You need to wait until your paint is fully dried and cured. We're putting it directly on the wall resting right where it meets the return of the trim. You don't actually have it on the trim at all it's just meeting it and all the tape is on the wall and then the part that we care about sealing the most is right here along the trim. And if you want, you can use your five and one tool to kind of seal that in. All right, so we're ready to paint the trim. 

I have my interior semi-gloss extra white here in my handy pale or empty 1 gallon cutting can, and I have another new 2 in angled brush. A clean brush, totally fresh and never used. All right hopefully you guys have checked out our how to prepare room for paint blog post so you know that we have already cleaned and removed all the dust from this trim and from the baseboard otherwise it could be a really yucky paint job. 

So make sure you don't skip that step. If you were to paint over dust especially in the corners it can just wreck your paint job so what I like to do is basically put my brush here just letting some of my bristles go up top under the return and with a smooth even stroke. Okay get that and then I work my way down okay, and then when you go to paint the thicker direction I keep a straight brush and this is why we taped off nice smooth strokes there. 

All right my paint job is done I'm thrilled with how it's looking but I just want to show you guys how I put away my paint before I clear everything out of here so I have my wall paint here I take my lid put it on the top and I use a rubber mallet I don't like to use a metal hammer because it can damage the edge and then your seal isn't great I work my way around the edge.

I'm applying firm pressure but you don't want to go too crazy on it not too hard You don't want to dent the can and then one little pro tip I like to use a sharpie marker and label the room and what it was for so on this one I'm going to write bedroom number two and the walls right on the lid and then that way I know exactly what it is. 

Also if I ever want to know the color that I used in this room because people are going to love it so much they're going to ask me what the color is It's right there on top and that my friends is the right way to paint a room I hope you learned a lot and that you're super excited to have your own properly painted room that you love got questions or comments leave them below and remember do it right start.

Hope that helps. If you need help painting rooms in your house or home, and you live in the Calgary, Alberta, Canada area, be sure to give 1/2 Price Pro Calgary Painting a call for all of your interior painting and exterior painting needs. For over a decade and a half our premium showroom quality interior Calgary Painters and decorators have been helping customers and clients save time and money on all types of pro painting. Call (587) 800-2801 for a free painting estimate or free painting price quote.

How To Prep A Wall For Painting

How To Prep A Wall For Painting

Prep your room to get it ready for paint. I'm a huge believer in doing it right and guys be honest with me how many of you have actually prepped a room the way you should. Not many of you I know. It's one of those things where you gloss over parts, or skip it just because it seems like it takes too much time.
But doing it right the first time and properly prepping can actually save you time in the long run and ensure that your more likely to get better results in the end. I'm going to show you all the essentials and even some additional steps if you want to go to the extra mile but either way when you're done reading this how to prep a room for painting post, you're going to know everything you need to do it right the first time. 

Basically prepping a room is all about two things. First protecting. Protecting your floors and your furniture. Basically anything you don't want to get paint on. And second, preparing your trim and your walls. You want your surfaces to be as pristine as possible so that when the paint does go on it goes on perfectly.

Let's get prepping. So this is a bedroom, and it's a typical bedroom situation we have a closet, we have a window, we have a bed that we're dealing with. The first thing you need to do is to clear all the furniture out of of there. Get the accessories out, and take anything off the wall.

My friend Cheap Calgary Painting is a professional painter. He's going to be helping me throughout this entire process. Pro tip, remove any fish and actually all animals before you paint. Obviously we're taking everything off the walls so that we can paint the walls. 

And I'm going to pull out my nails as I go. The holes will take care of that in a bit if you're taking something off the wall that's going to go into the exact same place like this lamp. You want to take it off but then leave the two nails in there. 

That way when I'm going around room spackling holes I don't accidentally spackle these and then have to remeasure and hang it. Whatever you can't get out of the room you want to still protect it so move your furniture to the center of the room and cover it up with plastic sheeting or plastic drop cloths 

Luckily we're able to get all the furniture out of here. All right so we have the room cleared out and if you care about your carpet or your floors the next step is protecting them. So I prefer canvas drop cloths. 

I think they do a great job, they are easy to work with and they protect the floors. Now I mentioned the essentials versus preference. If you want to go the extra mile you can put down plastic sheeting underneath your drop cloth. 

So why would someone choose to go that extra mile and put down plastic sheeting. There is a chance that you could spill some paint and it could go through the canvas so we used the plastic sheeting as just an extra precaution to protect your carpets. 

So two mils of poly is of a great thickness in terms of durability. It's going to hold up more to foot traffic anything thinner than that it may take more of beating and open up, rip or tear while we're doing our thing in there. 

We are planning to paint the baseboard and all the term in this room but as a temporary fix I'm going to use painters tape and connect the plastic sheeting up onto the baseboard just a couple inches this is going to be really easy to remove later but for right now adding maybe two to three pieces on each wall will hold this plastic sheeting in place. 

When we're putting our canvas drop cloths down trust me it really helps it from moving all around. All right, now that the floors are all protected with our plastic which again is an optional step we are going to put down our canvas drop cloths and there are two types. 

One is areas which you can think of those as the big rectangle square and then runners and those are if you think like a rug like long and thin so we're going to start with larger drop cloths and then we'll use the runners to fill in any gaps that we need. 

Okay, so our drop cop is wider than the width of our room so we're going to do two things. I want to get rid of as many wrinkles as possible. If you have bumps in your drop cloth it's really easy to trip on it and the last thing you want to do is trip with paint in your hands. 

And then also pull all my excess to one side so I only have to make one fold. All right when you're holding like this you just remember you want to make sure you're folding towards you so when cleanup time comes if you do have some stray drips of paint they're not ending up on your carpet. 

All right on to some surface prep. The walls in this room are drywall and that's probably the most common situation, however I know that some of you have plaster. Every situation and house and home is a little bit different, but since drywall is going to be the most relatable to all of you, we're going to address that.

We've inspected the walls for holes, cracks, dings, dents, and dirt, and Cheap Calgary Painting is getting started on cleaning some of the dirt that we found off the walls. Behind the headboard, we found a little bit behind some of the artwork. This is super common. If you are not starting with a new construction space you've already had things up on the wall dirt can get trapped behind. 

It happens, it's no big deal but it's definitely something you don't want to gloss over, we want to take care of it so what Cheap Calgary Painting is doing, using just a spray bottle filled with warm water and about two tablespoons of a gentle detergent in there. 

You're not trying to make it so that you can't see that there was ever dirt there the paint will take care of that. You just want to get rid of anything that's loose on the surface. All right so now's the time to start repairing wall imperfections. 

You want to go through and fill any of those before painting. If you were to just paint it, you're still going to see it. Don't think that you can hide it with paint. Now, if you have a larger hole or a deeper gap, you might need to use joint compound. 

We have a step-by-step blog post that will walk you through those larger wall repairs so you can check that out. So we have two different types of holes here. So this one here is a traditional nail hole that one and then this one though is more of a paint chip. 

I have a four inch putty knife, and patch plus primer spackle. The reason I like this is that it dries in 30 minutes. It doesn't have a lot of shrinkage, so it's going to stay the same size, not shrink as much, and it's super easy to work with. It really hides the imperfections. 

So for the imperfection below you can see that there's kind of the edges are raised up and sticking out. So I'm going to use the back of my putty knife and I'm going to press that into the hole basically I'm making an indent. I want all the imperfections to be on the inside of the wall nothing raised on the outside. 

Now that it's indented, I'm going to load up the corner of my blade and I'd say like this amount will work for your average size nail hole. What I'm going to do is, I'm going to press it onto the wall and my first pass is going to be kind of a soft angle. 

And then I'm going to hold my knife almost perpendicular to the wall and I'm going to go sideways. So again, I'm just going to load up my knife, press it in, I'm going to do a soft diagonal, and then perpendicular. 

These holes, dents, and dings are now filled, and because I'm using quick dry they'll be ready to stand and paint in 30 minutes. There can be all kinds of wall imperfections, and honestly, I can't predict exactly what you're going to run into, but I'm going to show you an example of something that I just came across here. 

And basically, this is a ridge in the wall, it's an imperfection that's actually raised instead of being a hole. It probably is from someone putting a bead of cock here and then painting over it but regardless of what it is we need to fix it. 

So what we're going to try and do first is use my five in one tool to kind of knock it down a bit. See how much I can chip away at it without doing too much damage to the wall. So my five in one tool has two sides to it in this part the beveled side here and then this side is flat. 

For this I want to make sure that the bevel is facing in towards the wall. If it was facing out. When I go to chip it, it might actually do more damage than I'm looking for. I'm going to go a long looking for  imperfection in the same direction.

If I were to go up and down, I might chip off too much drywall and just make a much bigger gap than I'm looking for. I'm sure here noticing that my tool is actually marking up the wall but don't worry the end goal here is to paint the walls. 

This will get all covered up. All right, now that I've kind of knocked it down a bit, I'm going to switch methods and turn to sandpaper. I have an 80 grit sandpaper here, it's pretty coarse. I want to be a bit aggressive with this and I'm going to again go in the same direction as the imperfection. 

We're trying to get this as flush as we possibly can with the wall. All right, now that this is sanded down we need to repair the holes and the indents, and we can't use the same quick dry spackle. We actually need to use joint compound and that is better for larger holes and imperfections. 

Right okay so talk me through what we're going to do here. We're going to use a larger blade and we're going to use joint compound or just going to scrape it across left to right same same way as the where the gouge was. Full dry time and I'm actually even going to stick a box fan on this wall so that maybe it can cut down the dry time a little bit. 

When you start, really looking at your walls first, you're going to find all kinds of imperfections. And another really common one are old paint drips. So this is from a previous paint job, and as you can see it's just dripping here down onto my trim. 

If we paint over that you're just going to see it again even more. So all we need to do is, I have my 220 finish sandpaper on here, and I'm just going to knock down that old paint so that way it's nice and smooth. And you'll really never even know it was there. 

While our joint compound is drying we're going to deal with any areas in the room that need to be re caulked, and what you'll see usually is that caulking needs to be touched up around like where the baseboard and the wall meets or around window trim. 

Caulk is the best solution for this, so I need to open up my tube of caulk, so I'm going to take the tip and I'm going to put it right into the spout cutter. When I'm putting it in, I'm going in in about a 45° angle then to cut it you just squeeze the handle. 

For this we're using fast dry paintable caulk. So the bead is on, and a lot of times people just run their finger along it but that's actually not a great idea because your finger is round and you're really want your wall to meet your baseboard at a 90° angle. 

So instead of our finger, we're going to use our five and one tool and we're going to use this small square side here. Now what you'll do is you'll take your damp rag and you'll put it in one layer over it hold it nice and tightly this is going to give you a nice square angle that you can work with. 

We're going to take that starting in the corner and run it along the edge of the bead of caulking you've just put on and it creates a really nice clean square 90 degree angle for you. Okay, our wall repairs are dry and now it's time to move on to standing. 

And this time I'm actually going to be using 220 grit sandpaper that's kind of a finished sandpaper it's going to give me a really nice smooth finish perfect for paint. So this may seem a little bit excessive to some of you but always need to go safety first. So I have eye protection and the mask so that I don't breathe in any of the dust and my eyes are protected. 

When we are doing finish sanding as opposed to going in the straight back and forth motion we're actually going to be going in a circular motion and that will feather out the imperfection and give us the smoothest finish. Again we're trying to get this as flush as we possibly can with the wall. Don't be surprised if you get a little dusty. 

Okay, so our walls are spackled and sanded, and now we need to do a bit more cleanup and I promise we're almost done prepping. What I have here is a damp rag. You're going to use your damp rag along your baseboards. You may have some of the spackle dust that is coming down onto the baseboard then I have a dry rag. 

This is really great for the drywall and the walls itself, and make sure you check your corners for cobwebs. At this point, I'm going to go around the room and remove all of my outlet and switch plate covers. Guys, how many of you have been lazy and painted around a switch plate or an outlet. It is so not worth it. 

First of all, it hardly ever looks clean and perfect, and second of all next time around if you ever do need to take this off you might actually ruin your paint jobs. So it's very quick and easy and my preference is to wait until I'm finished all of my sanding so that I get less dust going in behind my wall. 

First step to removing is actually going down and shutting off the breaker for your room. It might sound excessive, but you really want to make sure that you're always going safety first when dealing with anything involving electricity. And now I'm going to remove it using a flathead screwdriver. Once I have it out, a little pro tip here,  is that I actually like to put it right back in. 

They are so hard to keep track of now I'm taking a small piece of my painters tape and I'm just going to cover up my holes in my outlet so that I'm sure not to get paint on those as well. In this room we're not painting the ceiling, but we are painting the walls and the trim, and we're going to start out with the walls. 

This is kind of hotly debated in the painting world. What do you paint first, trim or walls, trim or walls. Everyone has an opinion on it, and you can make a good case either way, but for an average homeowner we're going to recommend that you start with the walls, that way if you have any overspray or drips or drops on anything on your trim it's kind of the last thing you do and it really cleans up the whole job and looks great. 

So since I'm painting the walls first, my next step is taping off my baseboard and trim and to do that I have two inch painter's tape and I'm going to start back in the corner and I'm lining it up with the top of the return. You don't want your tape to be up on the wall surface because that's what we're painting. 

The key here is to try not to work in small segments so you just want to work in one long piece this makes it so that you have a perfectly seamless long line and instead of kind of starting and stopping.  Now I want to really seal the tape. Nothing is worse than taping and then coming back a few minutes later and seeing that it's kind of flopped off the wall. 

So you want to properly seal it you have a couple options to do this. You can use the edge of your five in one tool and pull it along but, occasionally if you apply too much pressure your five in one could rip the tape, you could also use a plastic putty knife. This works really well. Kind of the same way you're trying to get as square and straight of a line as possible. 

And really press it down in there and you can use just the corner of like a store's bonus card or credit card and you can just drag that right along the corner as well. In addition to taping off my baseboards I'm also taping off all the window and door casings for the exact same reason. I don't want to get any paint on them. 

Taping around these is a bit easier than the baseboard molding because there's a lot more surface area to work off of. And now friends, you're ready to paint. We prepared this room and we did it right we took our time and protected all of our services and then we prepared our walls we cleaned we patched holes we sanded with this room is now ready for the perfect paint job.

The professional Calgary Painters over at 1/2 Price Pro Calgary Painting can help you with all of your prep needs if you need assistance. You're likely better off calling in a professional painter to get the best results. Give us a call today @ (587) 800-2801 and get a free painting estimate. We beat most free painting estimates and free painting price quotes in Calgary, Alberta, Canada.

Saturday, January 1, 2022

Cheap Calgary Painting - New Years Specials - Affordable Interior Painting Services For Less

The Best Of The Best Premium Showroom Quality Interior Painting & Interior Repainting Services Are Just A Phone Call, Email, Or Text Message Away. Save Hundreds To Thousands. Get Better Results!

Cheap Calgary Painting - New Years Specials - Affordable Interior Painting Services For Less

Professional Calgary Painting Cheap. Our Professional, Clean, Effective, Attention To Detail Painters & Decorators Help You Get Your Interior Looking All Brand New Looking & Fresh Again.

Happy New Years to you and your family. 1/2 Price Pro Calgary Painting provides you some of the best of the best Cheap Calgary Painting, and saves you money on painting, ceiling texturing, drywall boarding, drywall taping, drywall finishing, and drywall repairs. Our premium Calgary Painters and decorators help potential painting customers and painting clients with house and homes save a whole lot of time and money on all types of interior painting and ceiling texturing services in Calgary, Alberta, Canada. Most of the time, we are cheap painters, and on most paint jobs we see and take on, there is usually always a couple of common ways to help potential painting customers and clients out there save time and money on painting and decorating. 

You can count on us to do our best to help you save time and money. It's what we do. We've completed thousands of paint jobs over our careers, and have the skills, experience, and expertise to help you get the best painting results and the best painting prices in the industry. Our painters and decorators have been doing so for well over a decade. When painting prices and painting quality matter the most to you, then you have very likely found yourself the right Calgary Painting Company to handle all of your painting and decorating needs. Cheap Calgary Painting and decorating is our claim to fame. Save time and money in a phone call. Hundreds of happy customers and clients to date can't be wrong.

It's competitive out there. Anyone that has taken some serious time to call in local painting contractors, painters, and painting companies, has likely seen a lot of different prices. It's probably fair to say prices and expectations are all over the place. It can be hard for a customer to find a competent painter providing high quality painting services and competitive pricing. Our Cheap Calgary Painting teams can very likely help you with that. Our painters and painting contractors are very skilled and experienced Calgary Painting Contractors in town. It's not our first paint job. We've seen thousands of houses and tens of thousands of rooms in our careers. We do our best to provide you the best painting results and the best painting prices in Calgary, Alberta, Canada and surrounding areas and communities.

Large, medium, big, or small, our painters and decorators have seen it all and painted it all. No matter what it is you are thinking about painting or decorating, we can probably make it look perfect, and get you painted for perfect painting prices. Before you sign up with any other painting contractor out there get a price quote from us first. Our painting business is competitive, and we only paint out showroom quality painting results. And of course we also add in over thirty plus completely free painting services with each and every job we take on. You can count on us to help you get your painting and decorating completed with minimal disruption to your house and home, and for the best prices possible.

Best Price Free Painting Estimate / Price Quote.

Most of the customers and clients that we do business with make it very clear up front that prices for painting and ceiling texturing services are the most important concern. After that comes premium showroom quality painting results, and getting the paint job completed on time and on budget without anyone burning the house or home down or dying on the job site due to some type of accident. The best way that you the consumer can get the best price on painting is to simply call in every one of the Calgary Painting Companies offering painting services and getting price quotes from them first.

After you've taken your time to call in and get free painting price quotes and estimates from all of the other Painting Contractors in Calgary, then it will likely be the best time to call in our professional house painters and get yourself and your house and home a free painting estimate from us. Our painters and ceiling texturing experts can review all of your painting and decorating needs, and all of the other price quotes and painting estimates that you have received from other painting companies in Calgary. We're not shy to tell you immediately up front if we can provide you better painting prices and better painting services or not compared to the other painters and prices you have recieved.

Lucky for you, most times we can help. Better paint that costs less, better painting strategies that get your painting completed easier and faster, better painters with better painting tools and plenty of experience and practice painting all add up to save you money. Not all painting businesses have the same business overhead. Not all painters and companies out there have the same quality painters or even see your paint job the same way other painters and decorators do.  Most of the time we can beat most free painting price quotes and most free painting estimates. And of course, we always aim for and provide showroom quality like brand new or better painting results.

You can count on us to try to keep your prices and costs down to the lowest prices that we can. Depending on your panting and decorating needs and your requirements, we might be able to save you substantially more than you expect. Give us a call, get a free painting estimate, review what your painting options are if you are looking to save money, and we can likely help you find a happy medium that can be achieved for your painting budget. Other times, you might know exactly what you want painted and just want simple, fast, cheap, and clean painting services. You can count on us to help and you can also count on us to try to help you save money on painting.

Best Price On Paint Products & Paint Supplies.

Most if not all of the painters and decorators in Calgary, Alberta mark up the cost of paint and painting products and painting supplies. While they might get a discount at the paint store that could save them about a third or so or maybe even more off of the cost of paint and supplies, you the customer typically are expected to pay the full retail price on the cost of paint and supplies. Depending on the paint and supplies the painter is using, you could be paying several hundred dollars more for the cost of paint and supplies, and of course your friendly neighborhood painting contractors are pocketing the rest and rippling you off.

Some types of houses and homes are in rough shape, and some types of paint and supplies might be a better fit for the type of paint job. If your painting company or painting contractor or painter is not going to provide you all of your paint and supply options, insists on one type of paint brand or another, won't pass on the discount off the cost of paint directly to you and your paint bill, and very likely won't provide you all of the paint supplies receipts, then chances are good that you are simply paying more for paint.  Other times, some brands and types of paint are more appropriate for the job and there is simply no discount. Smart and informed budget conscious consumers can usually save a couple of bucks on paint and supplies on any paint job.

That can add up to several hundred dollars, if not a thousand dollars or more on your paint bill in a large sized house. Paying more for paint doesn't mean you get better paint job results and it doesn't mean your painter is any good. It's your house and home. If your painter is expecting you to pay more then $20 per gallon of paint, you are paying much more for paint then you need to be. Our painters have painted and repainted hundreds of house and home interiors using 20 buck paint. Low cost painting that provides professional painting results and cost less up front should be a consideration. Most customers and clients simply don't know any better and an in the end it simply costs more to paint.

Each and every year our cost of paint and painting related supplies and painting tools get cheaper. Any time you decide to call us in for a painting estimate or a paint job, rest assured we come to the table using time proven and time tested painting products and painting supplies. You will save time and money using our preferred brands of paint and painting supplies and painting sundries. Better production time from the time our painters get in the door until we are completed the paint job helps keep your costs down even more. Everything about the paint we use, and the approach to painting is designed to help you save time and money on painting. We do our best to get cheaper in price each and every year.

Free Repairs & Free Preparation Around Your Home.

Almost all of the painters in Calgary try to gouge customers and clients want extra prices and extra fees for repairing and preparing your ceilings, walls, trim, and siding surfaces. Patching and repairing common surfaces around your house and home is simply part of the paint job. Most of the time houses and homes are in pretty good shape and only require minor repairs before the painting process can proceed. Other times major repairs like replacing drywall or siding or trim might be required along the way, but more often than not, 99% of the houses and homes we see are easily fixed and repaired with drywall mud and spackle and a little bit of dry time. You shouldn't be paying more for obvious and easy and simply to fix repairs around your house and home.

Most houses and homes that require minor to medium sized repairs can quickly and easily be mudded, filled, sanded, and made ready in just an hour or two. Somehow you are expected to pay several hundred dollars extra to maybe a thousand dollars or more for a $25 an hour painter or decorator to repair and ready for surfaces for painting. Hundreds, and hundreds, and hundreds of paint jobs later, and this rule of thumb is still holding true. Unless there are significant repairs around your house or home, most house and home interiors and exteriors can completely be patched in under an hour or two. Professional painters that eat mud and eat paint all day know well that it really doesn't take that much longer to patch and repair everything around your house and home. That's what our painters do on each and every paint job we do. And it's also what you should expect from the professional painter you hire.

You simply can't pull off a showroom quality painting finish with out patching and repairing all of the ceilings, walls, trim, and siding in and around your home without repairs, fixing, and preparation. Painting over unrepaired and unpatched dents and dings and scratches are simply going to highlight the trouble areas and make them stand out. Don't settle for less. Professional painters patch and repair everything because that's what it takes to pull of a great paint job. If your painter and decorator is expecting you to pay out extra money for repairs, chances are very good that you are being ripped off or hosed by your painting contractor. Don't feel bad. Almost every painting company in Calgary is trying to take advantage of the customer or client. But, other times, there are Signiant repairs that will cost you time and money. Make sure you really know what you're up against.

Every house and home is different. Perfect looking and consistent looking painting finishes and painting results should be what you are hiring in your professional painter to complete for you. There is no point in painting a pig when you have the option to paint everything and make it look all brand new looking again. If you hang around and watch them painters actually complete the repairs, you will likely see and observe that it took about an hour plus to patch and repair all of the interior or exterior of your house, and perhaps an additional hour to sand it all down and clean up the mess from the dust before continuing on with the repairs. If your minor to medium sized repair concerns are not part of the paint job you are paying for, you are likely dealing with an inexperienced painting contractor that might not deliver you the perfect painting finish you are expecting.

Furniture & Property Covering, Moving, Returning.

Any professional painter out there that has completed any amount of paint jobs in an empty house or home knows full well that empty houses and homes get painted and completed a whole lot faster than a house full of the customers property and furniture. Depending on the type of painting and the type of decorating you might need in your house and home, covering up, moving, and returning property and furniture back to the original place and location is simply part of the job. Plenty of painters out there likely want more money from you to move your stuff around. Most times, customers can just leave everything right where it is, and the painter can move it around, work around it, and get the paint flying without too much difficulty. It depends on the paint job. Painting just walls isn't too much inconvenience to most customers houses and homes.

For ceiling texturing and ceiling painting and trim painting services it's a much different story. Covering up everything from top to bottom is a essential and a firm requirement that you simply must do, and have to do to keep things clean and not make a mess. Moving and covering furniture and the customers property is simply part of the paint job. Depending on the size of the home, being a small, medium or large sized house or home, this can add up to extra hours and days of time required to get things out of the way, the painting competed, and returned to the original position. Your painter wants a clean finish too. Proper covering of property and walls and floors around the house is essential to pull off a clean and fresh finish. 

There are plenty of painters and decorators out there in Calgary that simply won't even entertain the idea of covering up your house or home or property possessions for free. That's on you, or it's extra. More money. Higher costs for you. Some of the painters we know and do business with or compete against, simply won't even put in a price quote or an estimate or a bid on your job unless the house or home is completely empty. Some of the property we see in and around customers houses and homes cost more than the paint job. Hopefully you find yourself a painter or a decorator that can work around your property with little effort and for free. Moving and returning furniture and covering up everything is simply part of the paint job on just about every paint job out there. 

Don't pay more. Plenty of painters and decorators out there will happily cover, move, and return your property in your house or home as part of your paint job. You shouldn't be paying more to ready your house or home for the painters to come in and do the painting thing. You might be asked to move a few pieces here or there so the painting can start, but that's about it. Think twice about rolling with a painting company that cuts corners by having you empty your home of your property or leaving it up to you to move and cover your things up. Professional painters that paint and repaint house and home interiors all day every day know covering and moving property only adds an hour or two to the job and a couple of extra bucks in plastic and tape and masking paper.

Time & Money Saving Professional Painting Strategies.

Professional painting finishes that sell and make customers and clients happy they hired your painting company to complete the painting and decorating for them requires high quality painting finishes the painting company can sell. Most of the customers and clients that come our way for a paint job are looking to save money on professional painting. Professional painters that eat paint and mud all day know what it takes to paint out the highest quality painting finishes. It takes plenty of time and plenty of practice to consistently paint out the same painting finishes across a variety of surfaces. Using the same paint, tools, painters, painting strategies, and the same approach to painting each and every job can bring higher quality painting finishes for less to the table.

Everyone knows a professional paint job when they see one. Just as well, everyone knows when an amateur has professionally painted the interior or exterior and made a mess all over the place. It happens. Most painters and decorators out there that professional paint for a living or a career have a painting way or a painting process that they know provides excellent results. Most try to apply the way of the painter or the painting process they use the most to all areas in all locations that they paint. It typically provides the same results in the same amount of time if the same painter is using the same painting tools, painting strategies, and painting products and supplies. Once the perfect painting strategy is locked in that's more or less what the painters will use and stick with.

Saving potential painting customers and clients time and money on professional painting of all types takes time and practice to perfect. Low cost paint, higher production painting times, expert professional painters and decorators, and mass production based painting strategies really get the paint flying and paint job turn around times down low. Low yearly over head, year over year paint and paint supplies product discounts, better tools for the job, lower cost to paint, and finishing paint jobs faster can all add up to save customers money and keep us competitive priced for your consideration. Our paintings and coatings and coverings provide end result showroom quality painted results from one surface to the next at no extra charge to you.

Our painters know what works. From the paint we use, how we put the paint on, the tools we use to apply the paint - we know what's up. We use all of our painting skills and painting strategies to help reduce the cost to paint and brush, roll, and spray with time tested and time proven paint, primer, products, and paint supplies that keep painting costs down low. Hundreds of houses and customers and painting clients later and we know most painting customers and clients love saving money and getting themselves a professional painting make over. From the time that you call in, until you are shaking our hands for a paint job well done, each and every aspect of our painting business simply helping you the customer save as much money and as much time on professional painting as possible.

Post Paint Job Clean Up & Final Painting Inspection.

Sometimes you have to make a mess to make things look beautiful. Heavily lived in houses and homes and rental properties that see a lot of wear and tear and haven't seen a paint job in 20 plus years, have 500 dents and dings and scratches all over the place, are going to require a lot of drywall mud and spackle to get the job done. When the sanding starts, you can and should expect a lot of dust. Just as you should expect that your painters will clean up the mess they made. Keeping a clean job site around your house and home as your painting being completed is essential to a clean and fresh finish. Our painters clean up after ourselves and leave you a clean everything to go with your new paint job.

That may include cleaning up and removing all of the drywall dust or spackle dust, scraping and wiping up paint drops and paint drips off the floors, and a good floor sweeping and wiping and moping to go along with a vacuum cleaning and a good wipe down of everything that the dust and paint might have settled on. Most of the painting companies and painting contractors we see out there don't provide free clean up services. You might want to look at your painting contract and notice how it usually doesn't contain clean up as part of the painting process. Some do, some don't. You shouldn't have to clean up a mess your professional painter made to simply paint your home. Keeping your house and home clean takes you a long way to getting yourself fresh and clean refresh painting results

Sometimes making a mess is just part of the process of painting. Your painter should be expected to clean up everything along the way, and again at the end of the paint job as part of the final painting inspection. When it comes down to the final painting inspection your painter should be walking around room to room with you and reviewing each ceiling and each wall along the way with you. If there is any touch ups along the way, your painter sucks and you simply shouldn't be looing at touch up areas that your painter has seen and re seen dozens of times before they informed you that the job was completed. All of those concerns should have been seen and addressed by your professional painter along the way. Before they informed you they were done the professional painting for you.

Not do say a small dent or ding or nail hole doesn't get missed. It can happen. Anything beyond that and your painters suck. Sorry about your luck. The best way to avoid all of this trouble and all of the risk with hiring a painting company in Calgary is to simply call in 1/2 Price Pro Calgary Painting for all of your ceiling texturing, interior painting, and exterior painting and decorating needs and requirements. We've painted Hundreds of houses and homes along the way, know how to keep your house and home clean from the start of the job until the end of the job, and can still save you time and money on just about any type of painting or decorating for your house or home interior that you have in mind. Just another one of the 30 plus completely free painting services we add into your paint job free of change to help make your paint job look the best that it can.

Another Happy Customer & Well Finished Paint Job.

Our pro painters know how to paint. We'll get your interior looking brand new looking or better. And we will help you cut your costs and time and prices on getting a complete interior or exterior paint or repaint job for your residential house or home interior or exterior. Painting houses is what we do. Each one of our painters can completely paint your interior and exterior to the best and highest painting standards any time you decide you want to paint. For prompt fast, cheap, same day house and home interior residential painting services be sure to give us a call or text at 587-800-2801. Our professional house painters and decorators low price cost effective affordable and reasonable priced professional painting estimator is on stand by to head on over and give you a free painting estimate or price quote.