Tuesday, November 30, 2021

Which Interior Paint Is The Best

Which Interior Paint Is The Best

Shouts out there again. Your local friendly and cost effective low budget Calgary Painter again with this here which interior paint is best blog post. There's a lot of interior paint products out there. So when it comes to painting the inside of your home there are a lot of things to consider. Prices are definitely a factor. 

Today we're gonna be testing 11 different types of paint. Some of them costing four times more than the least expensive paint, and we're going to see if price really makes a difference in performance. So let's get the testing underway and see which brand is the best. All 11 paints that we'll be testing are Flat interior latex paints. 

We'll see which product does the best at painting over stains. We will also see which is best for painting wood paneling. We're also gonna see just how good these paints are at stain resistance and cleanability. And the first test will be seeing which paint has the best one coat coverage. We'll see which paint can do the best job painting over these dark green stripes to make a solid flat light finish. 

The least expensive paint we'll be testing is this Valspar Pro Express coat. Costing only $12.98 per gallon. That's cheaper than you can buy paint at most local paint stores unless you have a deeply discounted paint discount at the paint store. The second least expensive paint, costing sixteen dollars and eighty four cents for the gallon size container is this color place interior paint. 

Now it comes with a 15 year warranty. It claims to be durable, washable, and easy application. The third least expensive paint at eighteen dollars and 98 cents per gallon is this Glidden premium interior paint and primer in one. It has a lifetime guarantee. Certainly we will be putting that to the test. Crabble in washable Pittsburgh paramount paint is $21.98 for a gallon. 

He claims to have the most advanced protection one coat that provides a durable and washable protective shield, exceptional stain blocking and hiding. Fossil Soviet Menard is this Dutch boy forever paint costing $29.98. It comes with a lifetime warranty. It's supposed to provide a paint and primer stain blocking technology, advanced washability, and stain resistant. 

My original tip was to test flat white paint, and unfortunately I grabbed the wrong type of paint with Nautica, and I just decided to try to roll with it to see how it would work, and it's definitely not going to work for the purposes of this which interior paint is best. You could say it is a complete failure and not worth your time or money. Some of throwing all the testing results involving the Nautica paint at $33.98. 

PPG timeless interior paint and primer claims to be a complete one coat hide in coverage. It claims to be the toughest, most wear resistant interior paint, color protect technology, outstanding washability, square ability and stain resistance at $36.90. This Valspar signature is one of the more expensive brands it claims to be high hiding paint and primer stands up to anything yet a scuff shield technology which means it resists scuffs and stains. 

Costing thirty-eight dollars a ninety eight cents for the one gallon container is this HGTV home showcase paint. It's a stain blocking paint and primer, stays clean longer, advanced stain and scrub resistance, one coat coverage, is guaranteed, at 40 dollars and 98 cents per gallon. This Behr marquee paint is the second most expensive paint we'll be testing. 

It has a one coat hide, guaranteed lasting beauty and durability. The most expensive paint we'll be testing is the sherwin williams emerald, costing $50 per gallon. It claims to have exceptional beauty, wash ability, and easy application. Ready to give these paints a couple hours to cure. And when we come back and take a closer look at each one of them. 

It's been 24 hours since I applied these paints so let's take a closer look at each one of them. Valspar Pro is the least expensive paint and you can see a lot of the dark color paint underneath it did not do a very good job with a one coat coverage. The Walmart brand color plates actually did quite a bit better than Valspar Pro as you can see it did have quite a few areas where it didn't quite provide a good one coat coverage. 

But when you consider the price, the paint it actually did fairly well. Good and premium actually did quite well for a budget paint. When you consider the difference between Glidden premium and counter plays you can see there's a lot better coverage. Pittsburg paint is a little bit more expensive than Glidden premium and it also seems to have done a little bit better job. 

You can still see a little bit of a shadow underneath the paint but it's not quite as bad as a Glidden premium, that's why it did a respectable job. It doesn't seem to have done nearly as well as Pittsburgh at covering up the dark paint. PPG timeless most definitely did a better job than everything to the left. With that said there's still a little bit of shadowing and the coverage isn't quite as good as some of the brands were about to look at. 

Valspar signature definitely had slightly better coverage than PPG timeless and there's a little bit less shadowing. The HGTV home did not seem to do quite as well as the Valspar signature coverage and you can see a little bit more shadowing with paint. The performance between the Behr marquee and the Valspar signature I would call it a tie. 

Both of these paints did extremely well the only thing I don't like about the Behr marquee is it reminded me of Lucas heavy-duty oil stabilizer. This stuff is extremely sticky and thick and it goes on very heavy however it does provide an incredible job as far as one coat coverage. This emerald paint really surprised me at just how good it is. 

What surprised me the most is this paint doesn't have a very high viscosity compared to Behr marquee but if you look at the surface it seems to have done a better job with one coat coverage. Coming at first is emerald. Valspar Signature and Behr marquee tied for second, PPG timeless forth, and HGTV fifth. 

Well, it's not good practice to apply paint to wood paneling that has not been primed. We're going to do so to test the ability of these paints to deliver one coat coverage, while also preventing yellow bleed through from the wood paneling. Oftentimes the stains used in this wood paneling will bleed through the paint and leave the paint with a very yellow appearance. 

Looking to see how well these products did as far as one coat coverage, and we're also looking for yellowing, just like we saw before. Valspar Pro didn't seem to do a very good job as far as one coat coverage, however there's not too much yellowing compared to some of the other brands. Color play seems to have done quite a bit better than Valspar Pro as far as the one coat coverage, however there is a little bit of yellowing that's taking place. 

Color place and Glidden are very evenly matched. They both seem to be about the same. There does seem to be a little bit more yellowing with color place than there does with the Glidden. Pittsburg definitely did a better job with one coat coverage than Glidden, however there does appear to be more of a yellow appearance to it than there does with the Glidden. 

For one coat coverage, Pittsburgh seems it may be slightly better than Dutch boy. They both did pretty good job, but there is definitely a little bit more yellowing with Dutch boy than there is with Pittsburgh. PPG timeless did a great job as far as one coat coverage, but that does seem to be quite a bit of yellowing too. 

This would bounce parks signature seems to have done a better job at one coat coverage than PPG timeless, and also there just isn't that much yellow tint to it. Sherwin Williams didn't do quite as good as Valspar signature as far as one coat coverage, and there's a little bit more of a yellow tint to the paint.

Behr marquee did a great job as far as one coat coverage, as well there is a little bit more yellowing though than there is with the Valspar signature. So I'd say Valspar signature seems slightly better than the Behr marquee. Emerald definitely did the best of all the paints we've tested as far as one coat coverage, and there's definitely less yellowing than any of the other brands. 

Once again, emerald came in first. Valspar signature second, Behr marquee third, PPG timeless fourth, and HGTV fifth. Most of these paints claim that they are excellent at staining coverage. We'll see how well these products do at covering up crayon stains. Let's see how well these paints perform covering up a permanent marker stain. 

If you have kids and pets, you gonna end up with a little bit of ketchup and mustard on the walls. Let's see how these paints do at covering up a grease stain. It's been about five minutes since I applied these stains. Let's see if we can get them off. We allow this wall to dry out, we'll come back to this later in the which interior paint is the best blog post. 

The stain from the crayon shouldn't be too challenging for these paints, but the permanent marker is definitely going to put these paints to the test. A permanent marker and the crayon stains proved to be a very challenging task for the Valspar Pro. It's pretty easy to see the crayon stains as well as a permanent marker from perfect, but still Color place did a lot better job than Valspar Pro at covering up the permanent marker. 

Color place definitely a better job at covering up the permanent marker than glidden premium. Color place actually did better than Pittsburgh at covering up this permanent markers stain. However Pittsburgh definitely did better than Glidden premium and very close between Pittsburgh and Dutch boy.

But looks like Dutch boy may have edged out Pittsburgh by a little bit on this permanent marker stain however color play seems to have done better than both of these two brands. PPG timeless and the other premium paints definitely outperformed all of the less expensive paints. With that said PPG timeless did a great job of covering up the permanent marker stain. 

Was still visible it actually seems better than Color place and the rest of the less expensive brands. PPG timeless actually looks a little bit better than Valspar signature but again Valspar signature did a pretty good job. It's very close between Valspar signature and Sherwin williams, but I think Valspar signature edged to outshine Sherwin Williams.

PPG timeless, Valspar signature, and Sherwin williams all seem to have done slightly better than Behr marquee at covering up this permanent marker stain. Emerald definitely seems to have won this showdown once again. This is a very good job of covering up this permanent marker stain. While there's still a shadow there it definitely beat all the other brands. 

Emerald came in first, PPG timeless second, Valspar signature third, HGTV fourth, & Behr marquee fifth. The test for stain and abrasion resistance, we will apply each paint to a properly primed piece of drywall, allow it to cure for several days and we'll do some testing with it later in this which interior paint is best blog post on this house painting website.

We'll see just how scuff resistant each of these paint brands are. I've attached a shoe to this PVC pipe and there's five pounds of weight to test. I'm gonna drag to heal this shoe across each one of the paints and we'll see how they perform. Next up we'll test crayon permanent marker. I have a little bit of mustard, have a towel wrapped around a five-pound weight. 

And the weight is connected to this PVC pipe. I'll be running this towel across the shoe scuff to see how much of it comes up off the paint, and see how much staining was left behind. Now Smart Pro seems have done slightly better than Color place on the shoe scuff test. Glidden premium definitely did better than color place, but Pittsburgh did a really good job in this test. 

In fact I would say this is one of the top brands we've tested as far as resisting shoe scuff. Valspar also did very well, but not quite as good as Pittsburgh. PPG timeless has actually did fairly well, but not quite as good as Pittsburgh. And I was really surprised that Valspar signature didn't do a little bit better in this test. 

Definitely PPG timeless is better than Valspar signature. HGTV did about the same as Valspar signature. Quite a bit of scuffing. Look at Behr marquee very good Job. In fact Behr marquee took the top position as far as the shoe scuff challenge. Emerald I would say is probably second, Behr marquee came in first, emerald second, Pittsburgh third, PPG timeless forth, and Valspar signature fifth. 

Apply an all-purpose cleaner each one of the paint strips and then I'll use five pounds on top of this towel to apply very light pressure to see just how easily these stains come out. At first glance the Valspar pro looks really good, but upon a closer look the paint actually washed away. Not just a marker stain. Unfortunately color place did not do very good. 

Quite a bit of mustard stain left, the marker did not go anywhere. Still quite a bit of crayon stain and the scuff. Glidden premium definitely did, but it in color place as you could see a little bit less mustard stain. Some of the marker was started to come off. There's still quite a bit of crayon staining and a little bit of scuff left. 

Pittsburgh did remarkably well, most of the mustard stain is gone, and the scuff mark is gone as well. Obviously quite a bit of crayon left as well as permanent marker, Valspar did a pretty good job as well there is a little bit more mustard staining compared to Pittsburgh, but the amount of crayon seems to be fairly close maybe a little bit less with Dutch boy. 

And of course the scuffing has been removed from PPG timeless. All right, all the paint's seem to do a pretty good job. PPG timeless didn't do quite as well as Valspar signature as far as the removal of the crayon stain. Also the amount of mustard staining seems to be about the same between the two brands.

HGTV has a little bit more mustard staining than Valspar signature, and the PPG timeless, Behr marquee did a terrific job. There isn't any more scuffing and most of the purple is gone even some of the permanent marker stains been removed. There's still a little bit of mustard staining but overall a very good job. 

Sherwin Williams Emerald seems to have done the best. Most that purple is gone. No more scuffing. The permanent marker actually started to come off, and there just isn't that much mustard stain left. emerald came in first, Behr marquee second, Valspar signature third, PPG timeless fourth, and HGTV fifth. 

Taking into account the average score for all five tests, emerald won by quite a large margin, with Behr barely edging out Valspar signature, while HGTV did beat out Pittsburgh. Pittsburgh is also much less per gallon than HDTV, and performed nearly as well. Pittsburgh also proved to be a better paint than Dutch boy. However if you're loaded with cash you got to go with the sherwin-williams emerald. 

It is a really good paint. I'm really surprised at just how well it did. Now if you're willing to pay a little bit less than that, and still looking for a really high quality paint, I highly recommend both the Behr as well as the Valspar signature. Those are both really really good paints. Now if you're looking for something about half the price, a very good value paint and a pretty good performer is the pittsburgh paint.

Thanks for stopping in and reading this which interior paint is the best blog post on our cheap Calgary painting internet website. Most of the customers that call us are looking to save time and money on professional residential house and home painting services. We can paint out any paint that you want, but in our option, regardless of the information above, after paint has dried out a month, you could basically say paint is paint. Happy painting, and be sure to look out for our next blog post.

Thursday, November 25, 2021

Spraying Lacquer With An HVLP Spray Gun

Spraying Lacquer With An HVLP Spray Gun

Good afternoon, and hello again, this is the cheap Calgary painter here again. In this spraying lacquer with an hvlp spray gun blog post we have a combination of finishing techniques to share with you. Sometimes I use polyurethane brushed on, and other times I spray lacquer. The advantage to spraying lacquer is that it dries quickly, so that you can sand it, and apply coats within 30-minute breaks, as opposed to polyurethane sometimes you're waiting up to 24 hours in between coats. 

I've also had a lot of finicky issues with polyurethane as far as bubbles and things like that. That's usually from shaking the can instead of stirring it is what the pro painters have to save. Typically I don't have concerns with bubbles with lacquer, but the reason why this spraying lacquer with an HVLP spray gun is because I just got bit from an old technique that I forgot since the last time I sprayed. So I've been meaning to make blog post about this. 

My goal is to show you the setup that I have, basically how easy it is to spray lacquer if you understand a couple things, and I'll show you the trick that just bit me. I caught it because I could see it in the finish and now my gun is spraying good again, so let's jump over the equipment and get started with the basics of spraying lacquer with an HVLP spray gun. 

Alright so this is my general setup. This is an HVLP gun that I got off of E-bay. It's made in China. I don't know the exact brand, but there are a bunch of them out there, and it has its own air regulator here, which I run the gun at 40 psi. And I'll show you how you don't figure that out by static, it's actually by flow. And I'll show you that In a second. 

And the really important thing with these guns, is the size of your tip. So it's in millimeters, and if you look real closely, you may not be able to see that. Oh it's upside down. 1.8 millimeter tip. In my experience, the larger the tip you have, the better for spraying things like lacquer. The type of lacquer that I'm spraying I get from a local store here in town, and its ait's pre catalyzed lacquer. 

Usually this lacquer has a six-month shelf life. This one's a satin. The way that I mix this is with a ladle, and I have my own separate can right here, and you basically stir this stuff up really well. Don't shake the can like a newbie. You want it to look milky like that, and this is an oil-based one, not water-based one. And I use a metal ladle, and I do two cups of the lacquer, and one cup of the lacquer thinner. 

You mix it up real well and then put it in your gun and I'm going to show you basically how you adjust the pattern, and how you spray. If you're really serious about doing this, get some info that explains all the intricacies of the guns, which if you're gonna do it, you might as well do it right the first time. I'll give you my quick blog post version which is this knob here controls your pattern as far as how wide or how narrow it is. 

I usually run it at about 1/8 inch pattern. So this button here controls how much flow, like how much product is going to the gun. I leave this wide open, and my experience with pre catalyzed lacquer, it's better to have a bigger tip gun, and flow as much as you can through it, so you get a big heavy flood coat. I'll talk a little bit more about this. 

This is an air regulator, down there it was set from the factory, and I just leave it as it is. All right, so what bit me on this last spray, was these little holes on the side. I don't know how well that's gonna come up with the camera, but basically how this works is, that when you open the trigger, product comes out of here, and this air spray is what disperses it. 

Now it might be really hard to show you on this tabletop what it looks like, but basically it's a really fine orange-peel finish. So if you see an orange peel finish coming out of your gun that's usually an indicator that it's not being atomized correctly, which is what all those little chambers of air do. So I pulled the tip off, and I cleaned it, and then I did another test spray on one of these bench tops, and it went much better. 

Hopefully in the light you can see that where the light is reflecting off there, there is no orange-peel finish. Now there is a little teeny bit of dust on there, that's one of the disadvantages of not having a professional spray booth. I'm in my 2000 foot garage, this is my shot. You have to have the door open.

The fumes from spraying this pre catalyzed lacquer is really really flammable, and many people have had their water heater spark it and blow themselves up. So it's kind of a trade-off. Obviously if I wasn't pressed for time, I would just wait for the wind to stop, and then I blow my whole shop out, and usually it's pretty good but look at that finish. 

For a cheap Calgary Painter spraying in his garage, I mean that looks beautiful. Perfect, and flawless is what we shoot for on all lacquer jobs. And there are no streaks in it at all. As long as you have good overlapping pattern. So let's go over to actually mixing the product, and I'll show you a little test spray and hopefully we can spray a piece here. 

We're getting ready to do our mix here. So again, get a secondary container. What I do is two scoops of the lacquer followed by one scoop of the lacquer thinner. These are all kind of approximate mixes, it doesn't have to be dead-on for in my experience. Now you want to mix it up really good. Now is where it does matter. 

We buy these things from E-Bay or Cloverdale or Dulux paints. They come in a pack of about 50. Every time I reload the gun, I use a new one of these. So basically you put this on top, put this in, and now you're ready to go. So this is the compressor that I use. I actually really like this compressor a lot. 

It's a 29 gallon Harbor Freight, it's a belt-driven, it's not a diaphragm compressor, so it's not as loud and obnoxious as the other ones. I'm sure hear it kick on in a second. You can use this style. I wouldn't go any smaller than this, but here's the important thing. Let the compressor rest because if it gets water in it. That's gonna ruin your finish. 

So for those of you that don't know how an air compressor gets water in, it is the actual compressor unit when it gets hot it creates a moisture in it ,which gets in your line. So it has a drain down at the bottom of every compressor. I always blow that out before I start spraying. And then you can buy this one is not fancy, but you'll see if you see moisture up here you need to stop and let your compressor cool.

One other thing that I do is that I have a little nozzle that I hook up and I actually shoot it into the sun and you probably can't see that right now, but basically if there was moisture in the line I would see the vapor and the sunlight, and I would know that I need to let the compressor cool down before I continue.

This has only had three cycles since I've been starting so it's nice and cool and we can continue with the setup. Alright so what I said earlier is you want this as a flow pressure of 40 psi. So basically when I pull the trigger halfway, no products coming out. That's just air going through the gun. So right now you want that to stay 40 psi while you're getting ready. 

Now when you get ready to spray, if the nozzle is in the horizontal position, the pattern looks like this. It's up and down, so you can see when I spray I'm getting a nice wide pattern. I can show you here if I turn this gauge it's gonna close my pattern down. See that. That is not good for spraying high end high quality interior trim with lacquer products.

You want it to be nice and wide open. So I'm gonna open it up again. Let's go over here. I would say earlier I said it's an 8 inch pattern. I think it's about a 10 inch pattern. All right, very important to wear a respirator. Not just a simple facemask. You could get sick or die. Let's get this set up, and we'll spray a a door and some trim. 

All right, it's really important before each time that you spray, you wipe down with the tack cloth. You want to get all the existing dust off of it, and again between coats. I'll usually sand with a 320 soft sanding block. Not 220. 220 can actually put scratch lines in your piece, so do 320. And then right before you get ready, go ahead and give it a good wipe down. 

So just to clarify, when I'm doing the wood preparation, I sand 80 120 180 and 220, and then I get it all cleaned up, and I put the first coat of finish on. I let that one sit for about 45 minutes, then I do a 320 light sanding on it, and then after that if there's no dust nibs. You can go right to spraying coats every 20 minutes. 

You don't have to sand between every coat if it's smooth. This next part may seem silly, but trust me, do it, and that's basically walk around your piece as if you were spraying to make sure that your line reaches. That there's nothing in the way, that you have plenty of space. Because you don't want to be spraying, trip, or catch something, and then stop, and have that jitter of your pattern. 

You'll see it. So I'll do a quick mock of a spray. The thing you want to be looking for is my overlap. We said an 8 inch pattern, so I'm gonna spray the ends, and then come through on the sides, and you want to actually look at the sheen to where we have a 50% overlap. Again always wear a mask. The winds blowing a little bit which isn't ideal. 

But these are called build coats. It's not going to be my final coat. So if a little piece of dust was in there I could sand it out later. here's we'll do a mock first and then the real thing. So hopefully what you saw there is a big fat coat laid down. That's the only way to describe this. The product is really, really flowing out of there. Max product out, matching the correct airflow. 

And you just get an awesome finish on this. So as you can see, there's no bubbles! I'm gonna try to get some light streaks in there so you can see this looks absolutely fantastic. And look, I mean the winds blowing, and I'm in my driveway. My sawmills right there. This is anything short of being sterile or a spray booth, and you can still get really good results. 

So I always leave it overhanging like this, so I can touch it on these sides. So basically I'm going to pick this one up from the sides, put it over there, and then we'll take a look at it again. All right, so I'm showing a different angle now of another new door for lacquer spray. And the reason why I'm showing this, is you can see that my technique is anything but perfect. 

I try to keep the gun at the same angle, but sometimes that varies a little bit. My speed varies a little bit but I can still get a really good finish. And before when I was learning, I thought that it was because of my technique that I was getting such poor results, that the finish was really inconsistent and the reason why is getting bad results before as I was using the wrong gun. 

I was using a tip that was one point two millimeters, and I had the flow restricted down to where I wasn't flooding it, so again, I can't emphasize enough, the bigger the tip, the better and the maximum amount of flow on the needle. Meaning that you release tension on the spring by backing that cap out and now you're getting as much product going through that tip as possible. 

Well that's the advantage of lacquers. Remember I said we were doing build coats, so basically I sprayed this about 20 minutes ago, I'm gonna just react it real quick, and do another coat, and then this is gonna be done. So I take it out in the light, and I can see that all I mean, it just basically it looks great. There's no I can't see any streaks I can't see any sanding. 

So the main advantage of this is, that once you get a flow going, you can really do a lot of pieces in a short amount of time. So we'll do one more final coat on that, and it won't be done. All right I hope you enjoyed this down and dirty blog post on how to spray lacquer. Remember this blog post is an introduction to spraying lacquer with an HVLP spray gun. 

You want to get good at this, you're gonna have to practice. Practice makes perfect. No practice, and you can't really expect to get perfect results every time. As simple as I made it look and sound, I have had a lot of rough days spraying before I got comfortable doing it like this. And so I encourage people to take notes. 

Again the measurements are like approximate. Though it doesn't have to be absolutely dead-on in my opinion, but you want to take notes of how much you're diluting, what air pressure you're at, what your settings are, and that type of stuff you are using. So that when you go back you know where to make adjustments. 

I personally don't think you need really expensive equipment obviously this is a Harbor Freight air compressor, a couple hundred bucks. These guns are off eBay, they're Chinese ones. I haven't found a big difference in between the really high-end guns and the low-end guns for what I'm doing. Now if you want to go spray a car or do something else that's a whole other ballgame. 

I'm talking about DIY lacquer door and trim painting in a garage, so remember that when you set out with your expectations at the end of the day. There are a couple things you need to do to make sure your gun is ready for the next time you spray. So what I do is I disconnect it from the air source, I take what's in there, and I put it back in my transfer can. 

You can save product that's been diluted in a can for I don't know I'd do it for a couple weeks, and it seems to stay fine once you disconnect it. I put lacquer thinner right here back in this chamber and I clean it all out with a paper towel and then once the gun is disconnected from air and it has lacquer thinner I pull the trigger and into the garbage can it goes until the stream is flowing out freely. 

Basically indicating to me that all the lacquer is out of there, and now it's just the thinner coming out which is like water. I leave the lacquer thinner primed in the gun. I think that's better to just basically make sure that things don't build up and then you take this nose piece off at the end of the gun and you are set and ready for your next spray job. 

If you're having trouble spraying or your pattern looks wonky, this is the first place that I go. These jets in here if they get clogged up the air is not going to be able to project the product and atomized it correctly, and that's when you start to get those crappy orange peel type looking things that happen, which is why I realized damn it the last time I clean this I didn't take this tip off so if you're having trouble with your patterns.

Take the tip off, soak it clean, use a needle to get all this stuff out, and then go back through your setup if you're having trouble. In my experience one of the problems was that the tip is not big enough. Use the biggest tip that you can. In this case it's a 1.8. Have the product completely open. You want to get as much flooded on there as possible. 

Make sure that this pattern is set correctly. This is your V pattern. Keep it at about 8 to 10 inches you don't want it too focused or too wide. And then your air pressure too. You want to have enough air pressure to atomize and shoot the product but not too much to where it seems like it's going all over the place. 

I do not use backup. I use one gun for one product. So this one is strictly for lacquer. I also have another gun a 1.8 millimeter tip that I spray latex paint with, and that works awesome too. I think I use the same ratio two parts paint to one part water or maybe it's one to one for that, but don't mix water-based products with oil-based, or these you know these pre catalyzed lacquers. 

Alright I hope you like this introduction to spraying lacquer with an HVLP spray gun. Remember that this is just to get you started. You got to practice a lot. Do some research and read some books and remember this is these techniques that I showed you are for spraying lacquer trim. We spray the doors in a booth, or in this case, in my garage, and we spray the trim and cabinets on site.

If you're talking about doing really high-end pieces or you want to spray a car I don't think you should use the same setup that I'm doing. Go find someone that can teach you an introduction to that. And last but not least, just remember. You will likely get higher quality finished results and get the best looking finishes by calling in professional painters. The low cost professional Calgary Painters over in the north east at 1/2 Price Pro Calgary Painting can help you with all of your lacquer painting and lacquer spray painting.

Saturday, November 20, 2021

Spraying Wood Stain With An HVLP Spray Gun

Spraying Wood Stain With An HVLP Spray Gun

Hello out there again friends, the cheapest Calgary Painter here again with this handy dandy Spraying Wood Stain With An HVLP Spray Gun blog post. Well, you ask for it many times over, so now you're going to get it. I've got eight wood barn doors here that are all ready for staying and finish. But this time around we're not going to apply the stain the good old-fashioned way, we're going to use a spray gun correctly. 

This is a decent HVLP spray gun, we are going to use my Fuji Q4 spray gun to apply stain. I know a lot of people and painters out there have asked me many times how I apply my finish and stain, so I figured I would break down the stain application in this spraying wood stain with an HVLP spray gun blog post. It turns out it's really very simple, and extremely fast. 

If you've been thinking abou hiring in a painter to do some staining  with you, this technique could shave off hours and days of labor from your painter. And that can quickly add up to huge financial cash savings for you and your stain project, without compromising on any aspect of your wood staining project you have in mind. Work smarter, not harder.

So I've got my gun here, already assembled and ready to spray stain. This project is requiring two different color stains, so we will be using two different color stains, simply because two of these doors are going to be slightly different then the other ones. The final project requires the stain is going to be on color for a couple of doors, and another color for the other six barn doors that are about to be stained and finished.

Anyway, in between coats, I've got another jar here, that's full, well about three quarters, maybe probably a third full with some basic every day mineral spirits. Always keep some mineral spirits handy when spraying stain with an HVLP spray gun. This will help me clean out any stain that I've used in the gun, to change over to a new type of stain or stain color, and also basically for easy fast clean up when I'm done staining these wood barn doors.

You likely might have guessed, but, we got all the tools of the trade up in here, so I'm going to use my drill to kind of stir up the stain a bit, and get it thoroughly mixed. Then I'll just pour it into the cup nice and easy right out of the can of stain. Because stain is already thin, it doesn't need to be thinned out any more. It's already pretty thin to begin with right out of the can. Now pour it in to the gun and lets get ready to get the stain flying.

Now because stain is so thin, the tip I'm going with, is a 1.3, which is a general purpose tip. You can actually use a 1.0 spray tip if you want to. It'll still spray just fine. So to help protect this bench we are about to stain with the spray gun, I just like to lay out a couple layers of paper on top of it, just to make sure that the stain doesn't soak through onto my table. It's called stain for a reason.

This paper stuff actually soaks up quite a bit of stain before it goes all the way through and it's easy to clean up and dispose of after we've completed the staining projected. And now the back sides of these doors are actually pretty plain Jane. Nothing to them. Almost like a flat slab. Applying this stain the old fashioned way with a brush or a paint sleeve would still get the job done pretty fast and easy. 

The trick is about the spray gun is that it tries to keep the blotching down to a minimum because it applies very evenly over the course the whole door, rather than grabbing a whole bunch on a paintbrush and dobbing it in a certain area, and trying to spread it out before it soaks into that one spot. Now when I'm applying stain, I really like to use the blue shop towels that come on a roll, but unfortunately I've run out of those pretty recently. 

So I'm using normal bounty paper towels, you just have to be careful with these, because as you're using them, if they get too wet, sometimes they might leave some debris that you'll have to clean off later. I never use cloth towels or anything like that, because sometimes lint will deposit on the grain, and you won't see it until you start applying lacquer. 

And then you see all these little crystally looking nubs all over the place, and you got to sand them out just to get them removed. So try and stick with paper towels, or blue shop towels. Now when it comes to the gun settings, the fan, this is all the way closed off. Where it's a nice small concentrated stream, or a circle, I usually go all the way back to an open fan, just kind of see where halfway is at. 

And then I move it back a little bit closer to open fan versus the closed fan, and that's kind of where I keep it the material, or the product, I close all the way off to start. And I've done this enough that I know what I'm doing, but I usually turn it about half way, or about 3/4 of a turn each time to start.

Maybe after each time kind of take a look and gauge where my starting point needs to be. And I'll spray it, and open it some more, close it some more, I don't want to hold a lot of product to come out, I just want enough. And there we go. Spraying the door with our HVLP gun, that was pretty fast and easy. This door just took minutes to spray and and wipe down. 

All of these sides nooks and crannies that you got to get in to, you can turn your gun any which way you need, to just to get into those areas. Just wipe it off as you go. Super simple. I can have this entire area done all done and under a minute per side of the door. Doing staining by hand is easy and fast, but as you can see, spraying stain with the spray gun is substantially faster and requires less effort.

Look at how fast that was. We stained this door under a minute. Wipe it down again in under a minute and it's finished and ready to go. Sure is faster than using a brush or a roller to stain the wood surface. Minimal physical labor required. Look at that finish it looks absolutely beautiful. While you might have been able to get away with using a brush or a roller to rub in this side and under a minute did the other side and all four edges in about 2 minutes. 

Really simple method. Any project that you have to ensure that you get an all the nooks and crannies or rag may not get into. So you can see I was able to do all six doors in under an hour. I was never able to do staining by hand this fast. Something not only this fast but that efficient with that much stain being used can really help your labor time and help you provide your customer better prices.

So spraying it can help save a lot on material cost, and time for turnover, so you might give this a shot if you can throw down for a decent spray gun. So now I'm going to change out the stain for another color of stain and spray in the rest of the remaining doors that require staining and finishing. Notice how there is no blotching on this wood? No blotching on these doors.

So let me show you how to properly clean out my mixer that I had used with the original stain we stained the first couple of doors with, which is now empty, and it's kind of squashing around here. To get some of that off, you can take the logger out if you need to, and drop it down in there. I always keep a can of cleaning spirits or mineral spirits for stain, and a can of lacquer thinner for my lacquers. 

I always have it on hand so it's easy to clean my parts off. I found that it's just kind of just keep using that word but it really is it's more efficient in the middle of paint or staining my last door. What I like to do with the mineral spirits that I have inside here is, take it outside, and just spray a little bit through the gun to kind of clear out any old stain or old color that I might have in here. 

You don't want to spray that out of the gun while your inside, so be sure you step outside so you can spray out or blast out this stain. After spraying some of the thinner through and I went ahead and took the gun off and what I've done is I've dropped this cap down which is the underside of where the seal is.

And there is a small little hole that's in this thing, that allows product or stain to flow through, and it can travel up that hose, which is the the pressure hose. Because there's got to be a hole here in order to put pressure in the can, so product is inevitably going to get through this and go up the hose. And you just have to take that off just kind of work it down and just kind of clean out any of the old stain in there.

Because there will be somewhat of a pool of stain that you got to get out, here's my new cup. I'm going to stain. I'm just going to dump it right into the canister because it's already stirred, but right back on here, and I'll just wipe off a little bit of the stain that's on the outside, and then I can go to town on the new color

So this is how you spray stain on your projects using an HVLP sprayer like my Fuji Q4 here. It's really not a hard process. You don't even need a whole lot of product coming out of the gun, there's not a perfect setting that you have to dial in like you do with lacquer. So just give it a try, keep one cloth in one hand, keep the spray gun in the other, and just spray it on, wipe it off. 

I found that if I do a an immediate wipe off I can control the color better rather than just letting it sit and be being stuck with what you got so if you have any comments tips or suggestions be sure and drop them down. There's really not a whole lot to spraying wood stain with an HVLP spray gun. It will save you a bit of time and labor and provide consistent results across most types of wood. Some painters might prefer to use a wood conditioner before staining to reduce blotching.

If you stain your woodworking projects, there's a good chance you've confronted a phenomenon known as blotch or splotch. Basically it's when you put the stain on the surface, and you see a very uneven level of absorption. Some areas absorb more, some areas absorb less. And up being lighter in color and that's what we have here in this example you can see very light area here around the knot, and much darker areas on both sides. 

Now that unevenness is usually due to two things. It's grain direction. So if the grain direction in the board kind of changes up one area, might suck in more color than the others. It also happens just due to natural properties in the woods. Softer woods tend to be worse at this, but you may have a section that's more dense than another section, and the less dense stuff tends to be more like a sponge, and it pulls that color in. 

Either way you get this kind of weird, uneven, you know splotch pattern, that I personally don't think looks good. Now other people do think it looks good because this is sort of the heart of a rustic looking piece of wood work right, so if you want that rustic look, you welcome this blotch and splotch, but if you don't want that, you're gonna try to find ways to prevent it. 

Now there's something closely related to blotch, kind of the same thing I like to call it blotching with style. And that's something called figure. Now here's a piece of maple. It's curly maple, and you can see it's got that striped pattern. What's happening here is grain direction changes. The grain is kind of wavy so it goes down and up, and everywhere it goes up, it's a little bit more like end grain, so it's thirstier. 

It will absorb more color in those areas, and you get this beautiful striped pattern I think that looks super cool because it's very purposeful and it's repeated and it's a beautiful pattern. When we look at a piece that's blotchy, it's random, and I think the randomness is what makes me not like it so much. 

Woods that are notorious for blotching, I'll just name a few here, Alder, Cherry, Maple, Birch, Popler, and Pine, just to name a few. Pine happens to be one of the worst ones, and that is the subject of most of our tests we are sharing with you today. We're going to use pine. So how do we prevent blotch from occurring? Well professional painters have all kinds of different tricks for preventing blotch, but they all kind of operate on the same principle. 

And let me show you with a drawing. So let's say this is the surface of our board. We may have an area here that's really soft, so it's going to absorb more color. Then we have an area over here where the grain just kind of changes directions a few times. So maybe on this spot here, it's thirstier. Think of it as straws pointed upward, so it's going to absorb more finish there. So when you put the stain on here this is what causes that uneven absorption. 

So when we do a blotch prevention, what we're trying to do is even out the absorption across the surface. So there's a couple tactics for doing that. One is to sort of preload these areas with something let's say like mineral spirits. You just kind of pour that stuff in there, and it's going to pre-fill all these thirsty spots, so that when you come in with your stain, you just don't absorb as much. 

There's not as much room to absorb, because these are filled. At that point another method is to put some kind of a film forming finish on the surface. Something that will sort of seal the surface and that sealer goes down in there, and blocks them up a little bit. We're not totally sealing the surface, but just enough to kind of even things out, and you get mixed results with that as we'll see. 

But that's definitely a tried and true way to help prevent blotch, and this is a terrible drawing so here are a few traditional ways that painters keep blotch at bay. Sand to a high grit. This tends to crush the wood fibers and block them off to some degree. This trick all the time to help end grain not be so thirsty, but as you can see, the results are not exactly predictable. 

That said, you can actually use the hybrid sanding in conjunction with any of the other treatments we talk about here, and that can help you get even better results. A classic method that I've used many times and have written articles about is diluted shellac. The shellac partially seals the surface and definitely helps prevent blocking, but in doing so, it also prevents the finish from absorbing in general.

And you can easily end up with a color that isn't quite what you expected. You can use the finish itself a heavily diluted finish solution can be used as a pre-coat for the surface, and it will partially seal the fibers, but much like shellac, it can be controlled. 

If you're using an oil-based stain you can quickly douse the surface with mineral spirits which fills the grain and the pores with a clear liquid, making them less anxious to absorb the colored stain. It works but other options work better. You can use a commercial conditioner. It come in water and oil-based varieties, and they do work, but I've had mixed results with them/ 

And last but not least, you can prevent blotching by spraying wood stain with an HVLP spray gun and wiping off as you go. It provides a much more consistent finish on most wood surfaces and wood products you might find yourself staining up. Its completely up to you how you go about staining your finished products, but this is the method we use when we provide staining services to customers and clients in our areas.

Monday, November 15, 2021

Painting Services - Hiring Expert Painting Contractors

Painting Services - Hiring Expert Painting Contractors

Hello out there again, and welcome to our painting services hiring expert painting contractors blog post on our Cheap Calgary Painters internet web site. These how to paint blog posts on our website should help you paint out a higher quality paint job, and also help you when you decide you are going to hire in a painting contractor to complete painting services for you. 

When deciding to paint the interior or exterior of your house, your first instinct may be that you can do it yourself. And you probably can. But remember, your time is valuable, and painting is a skill that requires considerable expertise to pull off perfect paint job results. If you are not a seasoned professional you will probably make a mess. 

So consider hiring a professional painter to paint your house. Using a professional painting contractor takes the stress out of painting the inside or outside of your home, and finding the right one is the most important decision in order to achieve the best results. In this painting services - hiring expert painting contractors blog post we'll share tips to help you choose a reputable painting contractor. 

Someone with good experience that knows the best products and tools needed to do the job right. So let's start by discussing why you should hire a reputable paint contractor. You see many of the tasks involved in painting projects, such as sanding surfaces, working on ladders, using power equipment, or sometimes using solvents and other chemicals, can be hazardous. 

Experienced painters proving professional painting services understand the appropriate steps needed to avoid these hazards. Especially when it comes to surface preparation safety. They're also familiar with the appropriate paints and tools, as well as how to use them effectively to ensure a quality finish.  Reputable painters also know how to handle and properly dispose of hazardous waste. 

So once you've made the decision to hire a professional painting contractor, it's time to specify the work with each painter. Make sure you receive an estimate for the same work from all painters and paint contractors and painting companies you call in for a free painting estimate or one of those free painting price quotes. Prepare a list of what needs to be done and be sure to include what paint color and gloss level you like. 

The best painting finishes on complete interior repaints or complete exterior repaints come from painting all the surfaces you can with a spay painting machine. If the painting contractor you call in for an estimate is talking about brushing in and rolling in any ceilings, siding, or trim, you probably have the wrong painting contractor in front of you. Sad but true.

Also a completion date should be provided. Now once you have three qualified painters in mind invite them to visit your home and have them provide a free painting estimate. For each estimate received make sure you get the details in writing. For example a painter's contact information, your contact information, specification of the exact work to be done, including all areas to be prepared and painted,  products and colors to be used, including brand names, completion date and total cost. 

Next you'll want to check each painter's references. A qualified painter should be able to provide you with at least one hundred or two hundred good references and happy customers they have previously completed work from. That's the biggest way to sniff out the fake it till you make it painters from the higher quality and experienced painters. Which one of those painting services providers do you really want painting or repainting your house or home?

Pro painters will usually provide references, and you don't really need to ask for them. A professional and expert house painter should be more than happy to show you the contract information and job details for at least the last hundred customers or so. The work completed for each referral project should be similar in size and scope to yours, and some should be a few years old to see the quality of the work over time. 

If possible ask to see some finished projects to verify results. For exterior work its easy to drive by a couple dozen exterior paint jobs your so called pro painter has completed. Inside's can be a little bit more tricky, you are likely better off trying to make arrangements with the last hundred or so interior customers your painter painted out - as your pro painter is likely busy painting and probably doesn't have the time to arrange for you to pop in and look at the work.

Most painters and painting companies that provide high quality painting services usually have an invoice book or a contract book that contains a list of this year and possibly last years customers and  clients. You can usually arrange to review the book and see what your busy pro painter has been up to, just to be sure that you are in fact dealing with a pro, and not a newbie who really doesn't have all the practice and the experience that they claim they do after all.

Ideally you'll want to call each referral, and ask the following questions. Did you get a showroom quality finish? Was the job completed on time? Were you satisfied with the results? Did the final cost match the estimate? Was the painters work disruptive? And would you hire that painter again? Everyone comparing estimates should ask for a breakdown of material and labor costs so you can make a fair comparison. 

Another good indicator to hiring the right painting contractor is to pay attention to each painters presentation. Are they polite, professional, and dress appropriately? Presentation will most likely reflect the type of work they do. Ask to see a red seal certificate so you know your painter at least went to painting school and didn't get the professional painting experience from dad, grandpa, or from some other person that didn't go to painting school either.

Proof of insurance for the workers and liability insurance is another big hurdle to get over. The city requires all businesses that complete services for the public to be licensed with the city. Workers compensation will only deal with legitimate corporate company identities and won't provide wcb insurance to small potatoes fake it till you paint it painting companies with no corporate backing.

Painting can be dangerous work, accidents happen all the time, so it's important to hire an insured and qualified and city registered painter, so you're not held responsible for any injuries to the painter or crew members if something happens. Contractor licensing laws and regulations vary in location so be sure to check your local city website for more information on laws in your area. 

And most importantly, get it in writing. An iron clad contract that specifies the project scope. This should include details on how surfaces will be prepared prior to painting, and how your property will be protected. It should also include how surfaces will be painted. You want to hear a lot of talk about spray painting or you probably got the wrong painters in mind. 

The exact paint products to be applied, at what time, schedule, and payment terms. Most painters probably are out to get you. And most painters know that most customers are out to get them. You will both likely have to find a way to meet in the middle. When making payments avoid paying cash without a receipt of some type. If this is not an option you got a cash monkey that's probably gonna take the money and run or wreck and ruin you house or both.

Be sure to get a receipt upon payment and deposit. Check works well because the cancel check is a good payment record, but most smart painters and painting contractors and painting companies won't start the job or buy materials until the check has cleared at the bank. That could add another week to the job if you are looking for a faster start. 

And don't pay more than 50 %to 75% of the entire job up front. Half the labor cash down, and materials up front is more than fair. You are hiring a painting contractor or a painter to complete work on your house or home, you can't also expect them to provide you credit with no interest and take all the risks, and just hope that you will pay them in the end. Good business works both ways.

And keep all payment records, get a picture of your painters identification cards, and only make your final payment once you're completely satisfied with the quality of the work. Lots of fly by night painting companies out there are long gone after the check clears and you will never successfully get them back in the door for anything. 

And lastly, there are numerous choices when it comes to paint, but not all paints are created equal. Paint performance can vary, so make sure you know what products your painter intends to use. Keep in mind premium paint may cost more, but it maintains its durability longer, so your home doesn't require frequent repainting. Most importantly, make sure the specified paint in the contract is actually used on the job. 

Today we're talking about job site efficiency and orchestration We are also going to talk about some efficiency in tools that can help you achieve your goals on a paint job site in projects where budgets are tight and technical challenges are steep. You really have to make sure that everybody is tasked with something that is well within their realm of confidence. Because it's pretty obvious to painting professionals that not all painters are made the same way.

Once they're in we have to show them what our process is. Every company does it differently. Some painting processes are simply much more effective and efficient than other painting strategies other painters might use for your painting services. Our company has its own processes and methods, and our team leads know what those are. And from them down come the instructions, and that's how the project flows from top to bottom on every paint job.

Pro painting at easy. It litterly takes hundreds of houses and homes. Being one of the lead painters on site with only a couple jobs of experience doesn't count for anything. You'd be surprised to know that about 75% or more of the painters and pros advertising online and on the internet all around you really have no idea what they are doing and never went to painting school.

Being a crew leader for a bunch of misfits pretending to provide fine residential Painting ain't easy. Knowing the fastest way to do anything, and what exactly our plan of attack is, as well as just get people in mind we have different levels of skill, as well as different abilities, can get you the wrong team of painters really quick. 

They can come out to play at different times of the year, mostly in the winter, and chances are good you will get one in front of you sooner or later. Buyer be ware. It's your house and home. Why take chances. Residential painting start to finish is most of the responsibility that comes with the entire job. We walk in and take a look, have the scope of work in front of me. Pro painters know the fastest way to paint or repaint anything. Point out what you need painted and we can give you a price just like that.

We have a plan of action that get's the paint flying and on the surfaces without making a mess. An organized painting team with mass production painting skills can get a coat on most houses right in front of you in just a couple of hours. Some houses and homes get painted out in a day. Staying on top of the job, dispersing the crew, and paying attention to every detail one room at a time helps with effective paint finishes and tight painting time lines and painting budgets.

Hiring in the wrong painters on the clock can be the wrong move if not most of the time. All of a sudden that painter that paints out most bedrooms in an hour hasn't made it out of the same bedroom by the end of the day on your dollar of course. Most painter bosses have seen all the tricks of the trade and know most if not all of the excuses an hourly guy on your dime can come up with.

In the case of this job that we're on right now, we have more project leads on board because this house is massive, over 6000 floor square space, and another 2800 floor square feet in the basement. 8 foot on this side, 12 foot walls on this side, and here you have it folks, the three story sunk in living room. As you can tell we needed full scaffolding wall to wall in these corners to get up there. Look at all that crown moulding with ceiling boarders. Custom wood work on the ceiling. Top dollars for this. This work is perfect, the painting is going to look awesome.

So we have multiple production managers and paint teams on this house. Basically one paint team per floor in this huge house. The interior designer that we got this paint job from sure picked out some bold colors for this place. Always a pleasure painting for this outfit. The customers are going to be so surprised. But because it's so large, we need the full team of painters to get this painted in time for the move in.

So this is what we did to pull off this perfect paint job. Let's start with the ceiling. This is a full load ceiling with all the bells and whistles. All of this wood work on the ceiling was spray primed and spray painted. Then we masked off the wood work and sprayed in the open drywall areas. Then finished the ceiling up with two rounds of brush touch ups where all the corners meet so that everything is straight and perfect. Look at that. Sharp and clean. Well painted.

The walls in this place were beat. This was a heavily lived in and well loved interior. On these rough shape houses they typically take three coats of paint on the walls and two rounds of drywall patching to really get that into great shape again. This wall here alone had to have at least 500 patches on it, and we had to double patch it twice with the lights and two painters to get everything out.

These high traffic areas were beaten up as well. It's to be expected. From doors and back doors and the bottom and the tops of stairwells are all high traffic areas that often take a beating. So what we did is we rolled in all of the walls first, and then brushed in the rest. After all of that paint dried we can quickly see where all the damage is. We patch all the walls, grind all the mud down, top coat or spot prime all of these patches with two coats of primer or paint, let them dry, and then roll and brush on the second coat.

You guessed it. You can't miss those finer scratches and dents and dings you didn't catch the first time. Another round of mudding, sanding the spots and the walls, spot priming or top coating the new patches with a coat or two of primer and paint, let it dry, and then for the final coat you always want to fiish with a brush first and then roll coat of paint while the brush paint is still wet. Don't let anything dry out. As you can see we pre finished this section earlier so our customer could commit to the new colors they picked out.

Ceiling sprayed, and this trim. All of this trim is spray painted trim. It's a very high quality finish. We don't want to wreck the finish on the trim with a brush and roller. If your painting company or painter is thinking about painting your trim with a brush and roller and you know you have high quality trim, you probably got the wrong painter in front of you. So here we are now, the trim is all painted. Everything pulled, masked off tight, lots of masking paper for the miles and miles of baseboard in this one.

So you see these tight lines on the base board? Nothing beats a tape line for a straight line. It takes more skill to spray paint in baseboards on your interior but it's simply the best painting results possible. Be sure you take a good look at your trim. If it's already sprayed in trim and in good shape you don't want to wreck your trim with a brush and roller. If you trim is beat, hitting the trim with the brush and roller can clean it all up and make it look nice and better again.

Ceilings first, then your trim, and your walls last. You want your ceilings sprayed, your trim sprayed, and your walls brushed and rolled two coats or more on any paint job. The best bang for your dollars and the best way to get your money back on your painting is to pick colors you like and get an excellent paint job you admire. If you enjoy it more, so will the next owner if you decide to sell. For the best results you should think about calling in professionals for painting services in stead of trying to do things yourself.

Friday, November 5, 2021

Why Priming Before Painting Is Important

Why Priming Before Painting Is Important

Hello out there again my friends, Cheap Calgary Painter professional painter here again, and welcome to this why priming before painting is important blog post. We get lots of questions about priming new drywall, priming existing painted walls and surfaces, and often complete a lot of full interior prime and paint jobs around town. So we though we would push out this why priming before painting is important blog post to point out a few reasons why priming before painting is important on most paint jobs.

You know, giving your space a fresh coat of paint is usually exciting, and it's very tempting to just grab a brush or roller and jump right in the priming and painting. But one of the most important first steps in a good portion of paint jobs that we get into is to prime before painting .You know there are a number of situations where priming is important, and in this blog post the cheap Calgary Painters will go over the best types of primers to use for interior painting projects. 

So why prime before painting. Well first and foremost, priming will always ensure good adhesion of the paint to the surface. Think of it as a magnet for your finished paint. You know priming is commonly used to cover dark colors to make it easier for the finished coat to hide better. Adding some tint to the primer will even help the finish coat cover better too. 

Another reason to prime is when your painting walls that have a high gloss finish, or when you are painting very smooth surfaces, such as cabinets, or shelves, or wood trim and wood doors that have been stained or lacquered and are being painted with paint. Regular paint won't often stick to those types of surfaces very well, so priming is important in this situations, but not every situation.

Lightly sanding these surfaces, and priming them before painting them, will provide the best possible adhesion. Priming patched areas is also good practice. It can be done with primer or with paint, but in this blog post we will be using primer for spot priming damaged and repaired areas, and then finishing up with a couple of coats of paint to help make everything look brand new looking again.

This allows the finished coat to dry to a uniform shade. If patched areas are not primed with primer or spot primed with paint first, the finish coat will look dull, stand out, be easy to see over top of those spots, and you won't miss them. This occurs because the repairs are not properly sealed. And lastly priming stains caused by running water, or smoke damage, is critical. 

Priming these types of stains first will prevent them from bleeding through to the finished coat. If you skip priming or spot priming, it could take more coats of finish paint to cover everything up and make it look all nice and new again, and trust me, you don't want to go there. You could get stuck having to pay the painters and painting contractors to complete a third or fourth coat of paint depending on the paint colors you currently have and the new paint colors you picked.

So what's the best primary use? You have many options. Well for interior projects, you can't go wrong with a good multi-purpose primer such as Cloverdale speed primer, which provides excellent adhesion, seals repairs well, blocks most light stains, and provides very good coverage. But keep in mind for the toughest stains you'll need to use a more specialized primer with stain killer technology.

Premium stain blocking primer in latex or oil based uses the latest waterborne architecture to cover anything from lipstick to smoke damage, yellowing ceilings, basically the toughest stains on the planet. Now remember, priming will ensure your paint stays and looks good for years to come. So if you're not sure which primary use and need additional help selecting the right primer for your painting project be sure you head on in to your local paint store or give them a call. They can give you some ideas and options.

So here we go. I'm going to be showing you some drywall repair painting. Before we paint and prime we start with priming. So kind of a start to finish project. So I'll show you what I do through each step. So first find the little things, and screw pops, scratches, dents, dings, and damage areas that need to be repaired. Once that's ready for sanding then take your block sander to it. We like to use about a 120 grit sandpaper block sander. Never use just sand paper, you won't sand the mud flat to the wall with just sand paper.

Make sure you get all the edges nice and sanded smooth. If you don't sand the edges you won't miss them, and everything about you not sanding the edges smooth will be apparent and very visable. Don't put the compound on too heavy. Some areas will require a coat or two or three of drywall compound or drywall patch. Be sure you catch our other blog posts that show how to apply the compound properly so you can get perfect drywall repairs every time.

You don't want too much to sand off, and just make sure all the high points are flat, the edges are flat, the tops are flat, and everything's nice and smooth. Making circles with the sanding block over top of the patched and repaired areas seems to work the best and provide premium results. After everything's nice and smooth, you want to make sure that you get the dust off of those areas too. Some painters just leave the dust as is. We've tried both ways, and both ways work.

So I just like to use a damp rag or a slightly wet sponge. I run my hand over all the areas that I sanded just to be sure everything is smooth and we didn't miss anything. Using this method most painters and decorators should be able to patch and repair all of the drywall damage and dents and dings in most houses in just an hour or two. Don't get sucked in to paying hundreds or thousands extras for repairs that only take minutes to an hour or two to complete in most cases.

And then I'll give that a bit of time to dry before I'll roll on my first coat of primer. Optionally you could roll and brush in a coat of primer on everything, highlight all of the damage areas now that you can see them, or just use the old school patch first, then prime, then paint method that works but isn't the most effective way to consistently get all repairs in one pass or two.

For this job it'll only required one coat of primer. On some areas, two or more coats of primer may be appropriate. If there's not new drywall, and the repairs are fairly minimal, then one coat of primer should be sufficient. So this, I'm using a 10 mm thickness micro fiber roller sleeve. I use that for most residential painting jobs. 

So the roller sleeves that I purchased, they're good for all types of paints and primers. Make sure that you get a good roller sleeve. Don't go too like shopping at the dollar store cheap because, the cheap ones really aren't made very well and you will regret it when it starts falling apart in the paint tray or on your wall or painted surfaces. It'll be too frustrating, and you're better off to go with kind of more higher end paint roller sleeve. 

Whatever paint store you're in, depending on location where you live, just walk into the paint store and tell them you want to buy the best paint sleeves they have for priming and painting your particular services. They will be sure to hook you up with the best. Don't be afraid to pay $10 or so for a good paint sleeve. It's always worth it in the end. And you can usually wash them out and use them a couple of times before disposal.

So this primer is it's an excellent primer made by the same company that I use their paint. So I use Cloverdale and Dulux paints, but this paint job is using Cloverdale paint and this is their Cloverdale latex based speed primer. I find that latex speed primer is pretty good on most surfaces, and is also an excellent bonding primer for hard to stick surfaces. While not required, its really important, especially when you have repairs. 

You might have heard or seen about those two in one primer and paint in one products. You get the primer and paint in one. Tt's really not not good enough to cover up the repairs sufficiently, but it can be used in a pinch for the less informed. So that's why it's always better just to get a can of primer. A primer is usually thinner than paint, goes quite far, it doesn't cost a lot. It's well worth it to just take care of that.

So as you can see, I just go from one side to the other. Nice and even 50% overlaps with a good roller, a good sleeve, and a good Cloverdale Speed Primer. Having the appropriate amount of primer on my roller sleeve it makes a big difference. Using a larger pile sleeve really helps get a lot of primer or paint on the wall or surface. I always start away from where I stopped and then work my way back. I just want a nice even amount on the wall. 

You don't want to see where your roller marks where your roller has went up and down, so you want to make sure that there's no high points. Make sure you go back and reroll to feather things out like I'm doing, and just nice and easy, top to bottom. Get yourself a good painting poll, they don't cost a lot of money, and they really do make the job go a bit quicker. They will also save your back and help make your painting and priming go as easy as possible.

Now I typically don't go too too quick. The the most important thing is that you just stay steady. You don't want to be rushing and getting the primer or the paint all over the place either. You do want to get it on the walls or the surfaces you are painting and that's about it. You want just a nice steady speed. Now you noticed I don't have any drop cloths down, because you can tell this carpet is being replaced. 

So I'm getting all the painting wrapped up, then the carpets coming out, new carpet being installed, then new baseboard, and we will be spray painting in all of the baseboards and all of the trim and the doors in the house before we finish up this job. So I didn't have to worry too much, but I still don't get too much on the on the carpet even if there isn't a drop cloth down because you will look like a pig painter and not a pro painter.

But I do suggest if you're painting your house, and you don't do a ton of painting You're definitely going to want to put some drop cloths down if you're not replacing the the carpet. Optionally some ram board or some cardboard cut to appropriate lengths also works in a pinch. So once I get the primer on, I'm going to give that a bit of time to dry. I have other things that to do. 

So we generally will give it a few hours before I put on the first coat of paint. Now make sure you read the back of the can. All paints have different recommendations. Just go by what they suggest because they know their product, and what it needs to be done to get maximum performance out of it. So I'm just going to finish up here with the roller, into the corner there. 

That corner had a bit extra mud and it wasn't quite dry, so I have to have to sand it off later, but this is good for what I'm demonstrating in this why priming before painting is important blog post we are sharing with you on just how to paint the walls like a pro. So now on that same wall, the primer is nice and dry. We have a much nicer color. It looks very light going over top of the the primer and the current wall. The customer picked the color, and I like it too.

So I am going to be just taking my brush, two and a half inch sash brush, doing all my brush work first after we rolled and cut in all the primer. Now I'll be inside crown molding. It's not too difficult to apply the paint. It's pretty easy to do your edging up to it. Now all you want to do is make sure you don't put it on too heavy. 

You want the right amount on it on your brush. Make sure you feather it down. You don't want to put the primer or the paint on too heavy, but what I like to do is get all the brushwork done, then start my rolling while the the brush work is still wet. That's how the pros do it. I find then I can just blend nice with the roller, and less likely to see brush strokes and marks. 

You want to put it on fairly good but remember you're going to put on a second coat definitely after this first one because we are doing a color change, and also because we primed this wall with white primer before we get on with the painting. Brush will be needed as well. Don't go cheap on those. Don't be going and just buy some dollar brush over at the dollar store, because they all suck. 

You want to spend a few bucks to get a good brush. Just be sure you are using a paint tray liner there too. Now that those are all recyclable, so I use those for just easiness too, for cleanup and everything. I'll just make sure all the paint is dry that's left in the tray, and then I can recycle them. So those paint tray liners, they they cost me about $0.80 I guess $0.79 a piece, so I buy them by the hundred and $79 for a hundred tray liners is a pretty good deal. 

Painting the paint on is the same application as the primer. Just up and down, nice and even. You want to just you'll find that happy medium of how much paint put on your roller sleeve each time. You don't want it too heavy, you don't want too light, you want to be able to do quite a bit with each time that you have to refill your your sleeve with paint. 

And another pro painter tip. Always keep your paint right nearby. Now that sounds like you know obvious thing, but if you keep your paint tray too far from where you are working, you have to be walking too much. It'll really take a lot of time. The closer that you keep the paint to you definitely much easier and quicker to get the wall done in a sufficient time. 

So I'm just going up and down just like the primer, and getting a good first coat on. Always starting away from where I started, and then working my way back over. Just to make sure that there's no high points left by the roller sleeve. Just up and down, but definitely a second coat is always applied on all paint jobs. So yeah this is a nice color it changes up the room, and you can't see any of those repairs because they're sanded out proper and a good coat of primer is applied. 

So that is something that you definitely need to do if you have a similar project at home. Just follow these steps, read the recommendations on the back of whatever can of primer or paint you buy, and yeah, hopefully this why priming before painting is important blog post will help get you going it the right direction for your prime and paint job you have in mind.

That's about all that can be said about why priming and painting is important on most types of paint jobs that you do yourself or you might consider hiring in a professional painter or a professional painting contractor to complete for you. Painting is easy, but it takes hundreds of paint jobs to perfect the art of painting. If your painter or decorator hasn't completely repainted at least a hundred house interiors or a hundred house exteriors you probably got the wrong painters.

The very best way to get the very best results is to call in a professional painter to complete the painting and priming and decorating for you. The pro Calgary Painters over there at the low cost professional Calgary Painting Company can probably get your house looking better than brand new and for a lot less than the competitors in and around town. Give 1/2 Price Pro Calgary Painting a call at (587) 800-2801 and get yourself a free painting estimate or a free painting price quote.

Monday, November 1, 2021

Oak Banister Makeovers With Gel Stain No Stripping

Oak Banister Makeovers With Gel Stain No Stripping

Hi out there again fans, Cheap Calgary Painters again. Welcome back our low cost professional house painting internet web site. In this Oak Banister Makeovers With Gel Stain No Stripping blog post we're going to cover some often used two tone banister or railing make overs that we complete for new customers a couple of times per year. 

Today I'm doing something a little different. I will not be working with track paint, or furniture. I'm going to be redoing a banister for a customer. This is a project that the customer has been wanting to do since the whole family moved into the house about 4 and 1/2 years ago. We redid the floors just before they moved in. So we have freshly refinished hardwood all throughout this floor, and it's kind of like a like a walnut color. 

So it really doesn't go with the honey oak banister that we have. The banisters are sturdy, and it's in pretty good condition, so the customer couldn't justify replacing the whole thing, especially for how much that cost. So the customer just wanted to update it with a little bit of stain, and a little bit of latex paint. 

I've used general finishes gel stain before, and I know you can use it right over finished surfaces, and you didn't have to strip, or sand it, which I was really excited about, and so was the customer because it cost them less in the end. So I decided that I was going to make a blog post for you guys if my process went well. 

I've already completed most of the banisters around the customers house using the same technique, so we should be able to get this last one in tip top shape and looking like the rest of them. This customers house have a catwalk up stairs. Lots of railings and banisters on both sides of the catwalk. I learned a lot of things along the way in our painting careers, so I wanted to share that with you guys. 

Luckily I saved this little tiny section at the bottom of the customers stairs so that I could do a step-by-step blog post tutorial for you. We're just going to update this with a little bit of gel stain and some latex paint today. So let's get started. All these items can be found at your local hardware store home Depot or Lowe's, or from a professional paint store like Cloverdale, Benjamin Moore, Sherwin Williams, Dulux, etc. 

First thing we want to do is clean off the banister. So for any parts that are going to have the stain applied, I'm going to use this mineral spirits to clean that section off. You do not want to use this on the sections where the latex paint is going to go. For that we're going to use this denatured alcohol watered down by 50%. And we're going to put that in a spray bottle. 

These are scotch pads or final stripping pads. We're going to apply either the mineral spirits or the denatured alcohol to these, and clean the corresponding parts of our banister. These blue gloves are nitrile gloves, so hope I'm saying that right. I prefer these over latex gloves. They're just a little bit stronger, and don't break as easily. You're going to need these to protect your hands from these chemicals that were using and then we're also going to use them when we stain.

So make sure you get a big box. So here I'm taking the mineral spirits and applying it directly to my scotch pad. The better idea is to get a stainless steel bowl, put a little bit of the mineral spirits in there,  and dip your sponge in there. So the next thing you're going to do really is easy. Just rub this all up and down the portions that you're going to stain. 

As you can see it's kind of dripping all over the floor, so do make sure that you cover up the floor and the carpet with protective covering before you get started. This step is really important to make the stain adhered correctly. As you can see there is a lot of gross stuff sitting on there so do not skip this step okay. Now we're moving on to the portion that I'm going to paint in latex. 

So I'm taking that denatured alcohol water down 50% in my spray bottle. Spray it directly on a cloth. I'm wiping all that section down right here. As you can see this one is very dirty as well. So make sure you clean it up. The reason we're using the denatured alcohol versus the mineral spirits is because mineral spirits and water-based paints do not work well together. 

So I just want to make sure that everything's going to adhere to the best ability. So that's why I'm using two different products here. So all that's drying. I'm going to go ahead and tape off all my areas that I want to protect for my stain. My stain is a oil-based stain, so it is heavy duty pigmented, and I do not want it getting on anything, because once it gets on stuff ,it is very difficult to get off. 

So make sure that you're protecting everything. You also want to make sure again that you're protecting your carpet, and your flooring underneath your banister. At this point we really don't have to worry about any of the stain getting on parts of the banister that we don't want it to, because we're going to cover those up with primer and latex paint. 

So don't go crazy and be super sloppy, but you do not have to tape off the spindles below the banister. Next you're going to want to make any repairs, or fill any nail holes that you might have in your banister. So just take a basic wood filler, and a putty knife, and just fill up all those holes, and let it dry. Holes usually need two coats of wood filler to get the hole filed and level with the rest of the surface. 

Check the drying time on the can of your wood filler. Once it's all dry you can go ahead and sand it. I am using a 220 sanding pad. Just a smooth everything out, and get it ready for finishing. Sorry about this crazy lighting change, the sun's started going down on me right now. What I'm doing is getting all that dust off that we created from sanding. 

So I'm just using a paper towel to dust this off. You could use a tack cloth, or anything like that just get all that residue off for a clean surface okay. Final prep step before we start staining is we're going to take that sanding pad I just used, and give the wood just a light rub down. You're definitely not taking off any finish. Just roughing it up just a little bit to give that stain something to stick to.

And finally you're going to take that damp paper towel or tack cloth, and just wipe down any remaining dust that's on the banister before we break out the stain. We are finally ready to start staining. So here I am opening my can of a general finishes gel stain. It's in the color antique walnut. They do have a variety of shades. 

Java gel is it's most popular color I believe. Which is a little darker, but again I'm trying to match it to my floor, so I did select antique walnut. It's a very thick gel-based oil-based stain, so you want to make sure that you wear gloves. And you want to give it a great big stir before you start applying it the items. 

I'm going to need for staining are these paint rags. I got these at Home Depot or Cloverdale, I can't really remember which one. A big bag of rags will last a good painter for years and years. They're really interesting, they are lint-free, which is the key. They almost feel like a paper towel. They're all dried out, but they are actually cloth once you wet them. Very very cool. 

And I'm going to use this applicator. It's just a foam brush. These are like 79 cents at the hardware store. So I'm going to take my foam brush, and I'm going to dip it in my gel stain. And I'm going to pick up that lint free cloth, and I'm actually going to turn this into a polishing pad. So what I'm doing is putting some product on here. 

As you can see, just painting it on, getting that cloth nice and wet, and you will see what I'm going to use that for in just a second. So I am diving right in. I have dipped my foam applicator into my gel stain again, and I am just painting that on. I'm going to paint this on the handrail as well as the newel post and the balusters I am leaving to paint with latex later. 

So again I'm just going to do a nice coating all up and down here. You want the stain to set a little bit before you start wiping it off, so make sure you take this in sections. You could pack the stain on really thick, and just leave it. Kind of almost like a paint. I don't like that look myself, so what I'm doing is actually taking this polishing pad and wiping most of the stain off. 

I'm using a very light hand, and since I do have some stain on, my rag is actually pushing some of that stain back into the grain. When you're doing this you want to make sure that you are going with the grain of the wood, so it doesn't get all funky and streaky. And make sure that you don't have any big blobs, just rub it in all really well with a light hand.

So now I'm just zooming you in a little closer during the exact same thing that I did on the handrail. I have sped this process up a little bit just so this blog post doesn't end up being a 30 minutes long read for you. Obviously take your time, and be as methodical as you want to be. This process does take a while to get the hang of it, so I recommend starting in an area that isn't seen that much, 

Work your way down to the most heavily viewed area of the banister. On this first day of staining you're also going to stain underneath the handrail. You'll only have to do one coat under here. We just want it to match everything but you really don't have to pay a lot of attention under here, just make sure you do this on the first day, 24 hours before we do any more coats. 

I ended up doing three coats on this piece just to match what I had done upstairs. If you like the way it looks after one coat or after two coats please feel free to stop there. It's really up to you how deep you want the stain. The process is going to be exactly the same for each additional coat, so just follow all the steps that we went over on day one. 

Just a little side note. Make sure you dry out these applicators and rags each day outside before you are throwing them away here. I'm doing one last tight shot for you in real time, just so you can get a feel for how this goes. This is my last coat. Putting on my third coat so you can see how this process here will deepen this up. 

So now to achieve the color that I want with the stain, after three coats so I'm going to let this dry again for 24 hours, then I'm going to be begin to prep the banister for priming and painting. So at this point I want to protect any pieces of the banister that I do not want to get covered with paint or primer. So I am going to tape underneath the hand rails at the spindles, or the balusters, and I'm also going to tape the wall to make sure I don't get any white paint on my wall. 

And I'm also going to protect down by the posts. So again just cover up any of those sections of wood that you don't want to get white paint on. This is the 3M sketch blue pre-taped painters plastic. It is actually a painter's tape and drop cloth in one, so you just paint, then put the painters tape on like you normally would, and then you can pull out this really nice big drop cloth. 

So amazing. For priming today I'm going to be using this Zinser Bullseye 2 multi-purpose primer and sealer. And I'm going to be using this Wooster short cut angle sash paintbrush. It's the best brush to use to get in between the spindles. The handle is really going to get in the way. The reason I selected this primer is it is a water-based primer so it makes brushes and everything really easy to clean up. 

It's also stain blocking, and the best part is that it sticks to any surface without sanding there's no real special way to apply this. You're just going to paint it on like you would a latex. I do recommend going with the grain because it just makes things a little easier, and it will hide some of your brush strokes. You could thin down your latex paint with water to rid yourself of brush strokes. Pro painting tip.

You are going to still be able to see some wood coming through so don't think this is going to completely cover whatever wood you have underneath. I only did one coat of primer. You're more than welcome to do two, I'm just a little bit lazy, so that's why I did one, just to make things easier on yourself. Make sure that you don't have any huge globs or drip marks, so you won't have to sand those later when it dries

This is ready for top coat. After 1 hour of drying for the top coat. I'm going to be using Sherwin-Williams Pro classic interior acrylic. This is water-based, so again it's easier to clean up. I have this on hand because this is what we use to paint our trim. This is a high-performance coating. It's not yellowing, and it was stands a lot of wear and tear. 

So it's perfect for a banister, and the best part is this formula goes on smooth without brush marks because this paint is a little on the thinner side than other thicker paints. You can also have the paint store or the hardware store tint this paint to any color that you want. I like a really bright white, and so do most of my customers. So I actually did not tint it at all 

I'm going to be using this general finishes high performance top coat, and flat. It is water-based, so it's easy to clean up, it looks kind of milky. All you have to do is stir it up, and then you can start applying it with a foam brush. So you're just going to dip your foam brush right into the can, and apply this in a very thin coat. 

It is milky white and consistency, but then it dries down a very clear, and flat. Just make sure when you're going along that you don't have any drip marks, or really noticeable bubbly white patches. You really don't want to overwork this, so as you're putting it onto a area, just really smooth it out and then move right along and do not go back over it and try to fix it in a couple of minutes because it will have already kind of set, and you'll just make a big mess. 

This stuff you could actually do right after you're done staining. The only reason I painted before I added my top coat is because I did the top coat all at one time, so I did the catwalk in the upper part of the customers banister, as well as this little section all at the same time. General finishes recommends doing three coats of this top coat or more. 

We did three on these heavily used areas, and then on areas I know where people aren't going to be using the handrails much on the catwalk, I only did two. General finishes also recommend sanding in between your coats with a really fine sandpaper like a 400. I tried to do this and it started scratching my stain and taking some of it off, which I was not happy about. If you keep your work area clean and the dust low, you can probably get away with out sanding. 

So I decided not to sand in between coats. I don't know if that's going to affect you, but again it's up to you if you want to sand between the coats or not. And here's a little tip for you in between coats. You can save this foam brush, and just stick it in a Ziploc bag. Squeeze all the air out of it and you can reuse it and reuse it until you're done. 

Dry time for this top coat is two to four hours. If it's a little cooler, you're going to want to wait eight to 10 hours to recoat it, so here is just one more shot of me putting on my final and third coat of top coat.  As you see, it goes up really wet and shiny, but this does dry down to a very flat finish which I really like. 

So this project is finally complete for our customer. From this honey oak banister to a two-toned beauty. I'm really happy with how it turned out. I do want to warn you guys this project isn't for the faint of heart. You do need to enjoy painting, and you do really need to take your time and be methodical with it. 

It's not something you're going to be able to knock out in a couple of days I actually it took me about a full week to complete. Look at those couple hundred spindles. Each one is perfect. Hope this Oak Banister Makeovers With Gel Stain No Stripping blog post on our 1/2 Price Pro Calgary Painting internet web site helps you with your painting and staining projects. The best way to get the best results is to call in a professional to paint your banisters and railings and spindles for you. The Pro Calgary Painters can be reached @ (587) 800-2801. You could get yourself a free painting estimate or a free painting price quote in a phone call.